Amaryllis Nursery

baby amaryllis bulb getting ready to be planted so it grows more. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Amaryllis Nursery

One of the things I enjoy about growing Amaryllis is finding the baby bulbs attached to the side of a mother bulb that has recently bloomed and gone into dormancy.

It can take several years before the baby Amaryllis bulbs store enough energy so they can bloom but I like monitoring their growth and celebrate when they are finally an adult bulb.

this size amaryllis bulb is 4 years old and may bloom this year. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

To care for the small Amaryllis bulbs, I wait until they are big enough to remove from the mother bulb and can grow on their own. You will know when that is because the roots will be separating from the main bulb.

Plant the bulb the same way you would an adult bulb, buried about 1/3 from the bottom in good potting soil.

Water.

I also apply compost so the bulb has extra food as it collects sunlight in the bulb.

Once the greenery dies back, I may lift the bulbs and let them “rest” in a dark spot for a couple of months before planting them again.

Are they worth it?

See for yourself.

this is a collection of apple blossom amaryllis that usually bloom in january. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

I happen to think they are. Those lovely blooms brighten up my winter days and keep giving back year after year.

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Amaryllis Care

apple blossom amaryllis bulbs, some I’ve had for years, re-blooming. (charlotte ekkek wiggins photo)

Amaryllis Care

Amaryllis bulbs are popular for their large, colorful flowers and ease of care, especially during the winter months. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to plant and care for amaryllis bulbs:

Planting Amaryllis Bulbs:

1. Choose a Bulb: Select a healthy, firm bulb. Larger bulbs generally produce more flowers.

2. Select a Pot: Choose a pot that is 1-2 inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. Make sure it has drainage holes at the bottom.

3. Planting Depth: Fill the pot about one-third to one-half full with well-draining potting soil. Place the bulb in the center of the pot and add more soil, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed.

4. Watering: Water the bulb thoroughly after planting. Be careful not to overwater; excess water can lead to rotting. Let the top inch of the soil dry out before watering again.

Caring for Amaryllis Bulbs

1. Light: Place the pot in a bright, sunny location. Amaryllis plants need bright, indirect light to grow and bloom properly.

2. Temperature: Keep the plant in a room where the temperature is around 60-70°F (15-21°C). Cooler temperatures can prolong the bloom time.

3. Watering: Water the plant sparingly until you see the stem and leaves emerging. Then, water more regularly, keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.

4. Support: As the flower stalk grows, it might need support to prevent bending or falling over. You can use a stake or decorative support to keep it upright.

5. Fertilization: Once the flower buds appear, you can feed your amaryllis with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks. Follow the package instructions for the proper dilution and application.

6. Deadheading: Remove spent flowers to encourage the plant to put more energy into developing new blooms.

7. After Blooming: After the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk about an inch above the bulb but leave the foliage. Continue to water and fertilize the plant as usual. Amaryllis can be encouraged to bloom again next year.

8. Dormancy: In late fall, stop watering and let the plant go dormant. Store the pot in a cool, dark place for 6-8 weeks. After this dormancy period, bring the plant back into the light, resume watering, and the cycle can begin again.

These bulbs are easy to grow and even easier to get to regrow. Some of mine are now 15 years old and big!

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Repurpose Leaf Bags

Fall leaf bags are excellent for storing dug up plants. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Repurpose Leaf Bags

There’s an excellent garden tool usually available in the fall but it’s not just for gathering leaves. Those large tall brown leaf bags make excellent temporary plant storage when you dig up plants.

Fall is an excellent time to move peonies and daylilies as long as they have about a month to settle in their roots before a hard frost. Well even if there is a hard frost, they need warm soil for their roots and that can stay warm until January.

Back to the brown paper bags.

Brown bags can be used to collect compost additions from the garden. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

These brown paper bags are sold for leaf collection and are often used to haul leaf and grass clippings to our local recycling center.

The brown bags not only are double and triple thick but they can also be used to kill off hard to reach grassy areas. Once down, cover with wood chips to hold them in place.

Brown bags can also store plant trimmings for easy moving to compost piles.

If you are putting something with weight on it, add a piece of cardboard at the bottom to minimize the bags ripping from the weight.

If you happen to use these for leaves, dump the leaves and bring them back home. You can keep using them for many garden uses.

Now I haven’t decided when to introduce one of these to my cats as a cat toy. They love the smaller brown paper bags that hold groceries. What do you think, are these too big?

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

It's a Book Party!

My book a beekeeper’s diary will be among the book giveaways during the november 9, 2023 National garden bureau and garden communicators international book party.

It’s a Book Party!

You are cordially invited to National Garden Bureau and Garden Communicators International's virtual book party “Authors Talk Gardening” Thursday, November 9, 2023 6 P.M. CST/7:00 PM ET online. They will feature four exciting gardening books and their authors, followed by one-on-one author breakout rooms. Pre-register via Zoom

So tickled to be asked out of thousands of authors. So who are you going to meet besides me?

•   "Susan Betz is an Honorary Master Gardener, author and garden communicator.  She has been actively involved in growing and using herbs to educate the public about gardening and the natural world for more than 35 years. Susan is a member of the International Herb Association, Garden Communicators, the Ecological Landscape Alliance, and National Garden Bureau. She is a life member of the Herb Society of America and a charter member of their Native Herb Conservation committee and the Society’s sustainable garden initiative. She is the author of How to Grow Beautiful Herbs Indoors, For Flavor, Fragrance and Fun.

•   Shelley Cramm loves to see the ancient words of Scripture come alive in today’s gardens. She is the author of My Father is the Gardener, writes regularly for her Devotions Blog and speaks to garden clubs and faith groups about plants of the Bible and the garden connection. Her background includes a Master of Architecture, work in architectural and garden design, and leadership of Bible study groups, Toastmasters International, and Garden Communicators International. Inspiration to write about plants grew out of a routine of morning journaling and an enduring hope to finish the laundry and get out to the garden.

•   Michael Perry, AKA Mr. Plant Geek, hails from the U&K and is a fun and cheeky persona who has been involved in gardening and plants since he was just five years old. Mr. Plant Geek encompasses both an online and TV personality. He also fronts a successful blog and has created a unique range of clothing and accessories made for “Plant Geeks.” His book is Hortus Curious, a visual menagerie of the weirdest and wackiest plant species, written in a very accessible way.

•   Charlotte Ekker Wiggins is an award-winning author, beekeeper and gardener. Her one acre Missouri garden, where her neighbors said nothing would grow, is now a Monarch Way Station, Certified Wildlife Habitat and working apiary. She featured how she developed Bluebird Gardens April 2019 in her TEDx “why bugs matter.”  As a Master Gardener Emeritus, she focuses on native plants that provide food and cover for native bees and other pollinators. She is also a Great Plains Master Beekeeping Certified Master Beekeeper, developing books and classes to help beekeepers learn scientifically based best management practices. She keeps native and honey bees, mostly outdoors."
 
Besides meeting the authors, there will be book giveaways for in-person attendees and you may get holiday gift ideas, I know I did getting to know these authors. So mark your calendars for November 9, plan on what tea you're going to sip and pre-register here.

See you November 9!   Charlotte

Winter Forecasting

bees end winter and early spring at the top of their hives after consuming their way through stored honey. not a very reliable way to forecast winter weather. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Winter Forecasting

Not knowing what kind of weather is ahead can be scary. Shortly after moving to Missouri, USA, one of my neighbors tried to explain the rules behind woolly worm forecasting, a popular Ozarks fall pastime. Apparently some people in Missouri don't want to go into winter without at least a hint of what's ahead.

As I recall, all black woolly worms means a rough winter ahead; honey brown bands mean mild periods where the bands are on the worm. If the woolly worm has spiky protrusions, watch for ice. If it’s, well, “woollier” than normal, better bundle up.

Although woolly worms may be the most well known, there are other interesting winter forecasters in nature:

• Higher and larger ant and termite mounds mean a colder than normal winter. If they’re rushing back and forth in straight lines, rain is coming. When they go in search of food in random patterns, the weather will be good.

When I hear and read about ants and termites forecasting, I sometimes think to myself I would like to meet the person who sat around watching ants and then comparing their behavior to winter patterns. Then again, maybe not.

• Bees nests built higher than usual means cold weather ahead. They also cluster around, and in, the hive when stormy weather is approaching.

It’s true honeybees cluster – they don’t hibernate – inside a hive when stormy weather is approaching. As a beekeeper, it’s one of the ways I know bad weather is moving in. Bees also move up the hive through winter, eating the honey above them. My bees mid-September were already in their second of their three hive boxes so I moved them down to the first floor. That makes sure they have enough food for winter.

Is that a good predictor of weather? Probably not; it’s what bees do when daylight gets shorter.

• If you need to know the temperature, count the number of chirps in a 14-second time span of cricket chirping. Add 40 to that number and you’ll be within one degree. In fact, many insects tend to be more active when it’s warmer, including the sounds they make.

• If flies land and bite, rain is imminent.

• When Katydids begin their chirping chorus, you can expect the first hard frost in 90 days.

• Seeing more spiders than usual? That supposedly means abnormally cold temperatures ahead.

• If spider webs are flying in the wind, there will be no rain. If a spider puts up a web, the upcoming weather will be fine. If the spider removes it, a storm is on its way.

• There is also an Ozark tradition of cutting open persimmon seeds and checking the seed. A spoon shape inside indicates above average snowfall, a knife shape signals colder than normal temperatures and a fork shape means warmer than average temperatures. People opening up persimmons this year and finding only spoons.persimmon.

I have a very easy way to predict weather at my house. If my cats don't get out of bed, there's a high probability it's cold outside!

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Bringing Plants Inside

IT’S A MESS TRANSITIONING PLANTS INSIDE AND GETTING READY FOR WINTER. (CHARLOTTE EKKER WIGGINS PHOTO)

Bringing Plants Inside

It's time to bring tropical plants inside and the process is, frankly, a bit of a mess. The whole cycle can take a couple of weeks, if not more, so I start the end of September.

Our first hard frost is from October 30-November 14. Starting at the end of September gives plants time to adjust to the change in their growing conditions before I turn the house heat on.

The hardest part is deciding what plants come inside and which ones spend a few more weeks outside before a hard frost ends their life. I am cutting back on the number of plants I have on the deck over summer but it’s never easy to leave even one plant behind.

• Once lined up in order of priority and size, I replace the top 1-2 inches of soil with new soil to remove any eggs that may hibernate.

• Next a spray of dishwashing liquid mixed with water removes any bugs on top of, and under, leaves. I also use a mixture of Neem oil and water in a spray bottle for those plants harboring bugs on leaves.

• Time for a trim. Some plants expand over summer so they need a trim to better fit the inside space.

• Hitchhiker check. Tree frogs, lizards and grasshoppers sometimes end up inside, to the delight of my cats. Best to leave them outside.

  It's work but so appreciated later when its cold and snowy outside and I'm having a warm cup of tea surrounded by greenery.

  Charlotte

Snakeroot

white snakeroot makes my garden look snow-covered. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

White Snakeroot

It’s that time of year when the garden starts to wind down and prepare for winter. One of the reminders is blooming white snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosium). White snakeroot is a North American native plant known for its toxic properties. It contains tremetol, a compound that can be harmful to livestock when consumed.

Historically, the consumption of white snakeroot-contaminated milk by cattle led to a condition called "milk sickness," which could also affect humans who consumed dairy products from affected cows. US President Abraham Lincoln’s mother may have died from consuming contaminated milk with snakeroot.

white snakeroot will plant itself with little gardener care. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Snakeroot plants are airy, giving the garden a nice contrasting plant form.

The plants are also part of the fall blooming plants that provide pollinators including bees with a last chance of collecting food to store for winter.

snakeroot flowers are a group of tiny flowers. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Although noted for growing in wet areas, I have snakeroot growing all over my limestone hillside.

When growing in a bad spot, they are easy to remove since they have shallow roots.

Interestingly enough, Don Kurz in “Ozark Wildflowers’ notes Native American Indians used snakeroot to cure a number of ailments. More recently it’s been noted snakeroot may have anticancer properties.

Charlotte

Planting Bulbs for Spring Flowers

tete-a-tete daffodils, lefft, are among the early blooming spring daffodils. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Planting Bulbs for Spring Flowers

The bulb packages are starting to show up at local home and garden centers so time to check my notes from spring. Not that it's very helpful since I scatter spring-flowering bulbs through my garden but at least this year I tried to identify areas where I can add more.
Planting spring bulbs in the fall allows them to establish roots before cold weather sets in. Some bulbs such as tulips also need to be exposed to cold for 8-12 weeks or they won't bloom.
Here are some favorite spring bulbs to plant in fall, along with tips for successful planting:

1. Tulips: Tulips come in a wide range of colors and shapes, making them a popular choice for spring gardens. They are also edible and a favorite food source for deer. In USDA Hardiness zone 5, tulips are annuals, only growing one year.
When planting tulips, follow these tips:

• Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil.

• Plant tulip bulbs about 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up.

• Space the bulbs a few inches apart, considering the eventual size of the tulip plants.

• Water thoroughly after planting to help settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.

• After they bloom, try not to water the area or the moisture will cause dormant bulbs to rot.

2. Daffodils (Narcissus): Daffodils are known for their vibrant yellow and white blooms, often with a sweet fragrance. My neighbors call my hillside garden "daffodil land" because I have them growing all over my hillside.
Here's how to plant them:

• Select a sunny to partially shaded spot with good drainage.

• Plant daffodil bulbs about 6 inches deep, with the pointed end up.

• Space them apart according to the variety, usually a few inches.

• Daffodils are generally low-maintenance and deer-resistant.

3. Crocuses: Crocuses are some of the earliest bloomers, bringing pops of color to your garden in late winter to early spring. The bulbs are favorite mouse food so don't be surprised if you loose some before they bloom.
Here's how to plant crocus bulbs:

• Choose a spot with well-draining soil and partial to full sun.

• Plant crocus bulbs about 3 to 4 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up.

• Space them close together for a dense carpet of color.

• Crocuses naturalize well, which means they'll multiply over the years.

4. Grape Hyacinths: Grape Hyacinths are a favorite for bees and naturalize once established.
To plant grape hyacinth bulbs:

• Pick a sunny location with well-drained soil.

• Plant hyacinth bulbs about 6 inches deep, with the pointed end up.

• Space them a few inches apart, considering the eventual size of the plants.

• Water after planting to settle the soil and encourage root growth.

5. Alliums: Alliums, often referred to as ornamental onions, offer unique spherical blooms that add architectural interest to gardens.
Plant allium bulbs as follows:

• Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil.

• Plant allium bulbs about 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end up.

• Space them apart according to the specific variety.

• Alliums are known for their deer and rodent resistance.

Tips for Successful Planting:

• Prepare the soil by adding compost or well-rotted organic matter to improve drainage and fertility.

• Plant bulbs with the pointed ends facing upwards and follow recommended planting depths for each type.

• Water bulbs after planting to help settle the soil and initiate root growth.

• Mulch the planted area to help conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.

• Consider grouping bulbs together for a more impactful display of color.

• Protect newly planted bulbs from pests like squirrels by covering the planting area with wire mesh.

• Be mindful of the recommended hardiness zone for each bulb type to ensure they can survive your winter temperatures.

  Charlotte

December Gardening Jobs

time to finish mulching flower beds with shredded oak leaves. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

December Gardening Jobs

I will be planting the last of my new plant arrivals this month, hopefully a good 5 weeks before a hard frost. Last year, our soil never froze; the year before it was January. The rapid changes in our climate are showing up in my USDA Hardiness zone 5 garden.

I still have some spring garden bulbs to get in the ground. Sprinkled with bone meal in the hole before placing the bulb, these new garden additions will be fun to see in bloom in only a few months. Or so I remind myself; I miss my green garden wintertime.

Here are some other December gardening jobs:

Get broken branches and limbs trimmed before ice hits, or before someone runs into them visiting for the holidays. You know where they are but people new to your property are bound to run into them.

 As soon as a hard frost hits, it will be time to mulch. Mulching maintains the soil at an even temperature. During winter, the point of mulching is to keep plants in hibernation. If you still have shredded leaf piles, move those into flower beds, those will also make good mulch.

 To mulch trees, make a well around the tree trunk and leave an area the width of a tire between the tree trunk and the mulch. When mulching, don’t pile mulch up to the trunk or you will create an area for diseases. Leaving a little moat around the tree also reduces girdling.

 Have empty pots, garden carts, rakes leaning against the side of the house? It’s time to clean them off and store them for the season. The rakes, in particular, you don’t want to step on the tines and hit yourself on the side of the head.

Mulch-covered mums showing new growth; keep them watered over winter. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

If you are planting mums this fall, make sure to get them mulched and regularly watered over the cold months. Leave the dead growth, it will protect the young shoots growing in the plant center.

Empty composters into flower beds. Leave enough to get a new batch started.

Clean out and organize your garden implements so you know which ones need repairs including sharpening. Winter is a good time to get those done.

Did you save seeds this year? Get them in containers and labelled; store seeds in a cool dry space.

Keep an eye out for plant sales. Bulbs are usually half off this time of year and seasonal plants get marked down after the holidays.

Give gardening gifts for the gardeners on your gift list starting with these wonderful gardening gloves with honey.

Finally remember to rest and start planning for next year. If you haven’t already, make notes of what worked well this growing season and what you want to try next year. Before you know it, it will be spring!

Charlotte

November Gardening Jobs

wintering over mums inside my garage this year. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

November Gardening Jobs

This year I am going to winter hardy mums in my garage. I love these long-lasting cut flowers that are a natural bug deterrent. They do well on my shallow soil profile but are usually only available in the fall. I will be planting them this spring in the garden to give them a longer growing season. I garden in USDA Hardiness Zone 5.

As long as the ground is not frozen, fall is an excellent time to plant trees, bushes, perennials and bulbs.

Now that all of my tropical plants are settled inside, I am still moving potted plants around to give them optimum light conditions. With my house heat on, plants are adjusting to the warm conditions by dropping leaves.

Tree leaves have also been busy, from changing color to making their way onto flower beds. I like to use mowed over leaves for a layer of mulch that decomposes into soil over the next few years. I will be adding wood chips from our local recycling center after the first hard frost. The combination will create a plantable bed by next spring.

Missouri’s native tree flowering dogwood leaves turn purple in fall. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins Photo)

Plants continue to need moisture; an inch a week is a good measure, especially for woody plants, such as azaleas and evergreens. When watering, check for damaged branches and remove. Once winter ice moves in, the ice will cause more damage than necessary on those weak and damaged limbs. I take pruners with me so I can also trim out suckers and branches that are too long, especially along where I regularly walk. No point in putting that off until later when the ground is covered in ice and snow.

If you haven’t done so already, this is a good time to empty most of your composters. Most likely candidates to get the new rich soil amendment include asparagus and strawberry beds.  I also added compost to my deck pots to get them ready for my next crops. I still have red onions growing so I may scatter some lettuce and spinach seeds.

Still need to mound my rose crowns with 6 inches of soil or so before the first frost. I have mounds of mulch already piled nearby to scatter on the plants after I add a layer of leaf mulch for extra insulation.

My purple coneflowers bloomed well this year so I have trimmed a few seed heads to plant in my nursery bed next year. The rest I leave for winter bird food.

Have grass to mow? You should be on the downside of the mowing season. Make the last cut when you see grass has stopped growing. Let clippings lie where they’ve been cut to restore Nitrogen to the soil. Have fun mowing over the leaves to shred and move them to flower beds.

Don’t forget to stop and enjoy the fall colors. Trees, shrubs and some perennials take on a different color in fall, changing gardens into new, sometimes surprising color palettes. Take note of something you like and plant more next year.

If you’ve enjoyed daffodils and tulips earlier this year, this is the time to get bulbs planted. There is a variety of other spring bulbs to plant now including lilies and hyacinths. Check your local home and garden center for the varieties best for your area, and shop late season discounts.

Charlotte

Hardy Garden Mums

Pink daisy-like hardy garden Mums were planted last fall, survived winter and made it through our record hot summer. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Hardy Garden Mums

Have you ever wondered why some mums make it through winter but others do not?

Getting mums through their first winter in a garden can be challenging. There are a couple of reasons why including that there are two different types of mums.

The perennial, fall-flowering form is Chrysanthemum x morifolium and are the best to add to gardens. These are the ones that come back year after year once they get established. By comparison, the annual variety is Chrysanthemum x multicaule. These tend to be sold as gift plants in grocery stores and florists and don’t do well outside of a greenhouse.

If your plant has no identification, here’s how to easily tell them apart. Annual mums have thinner, strappy leaves that are not as toothed as the perennials, which are wide and deeply notched.

How to Plant Hardy Garden Mums

Make sure the root ball is nicely hydrated. I will place them in a bucket of water overnight to ensure they have all of the water they need. Sometimes they can get dry sitting in a pot at a garden center and only watered with a sprinkler.

Secondly hardy garden mums in USDA Hardiness zone 5 like at least 6 hours of sun a day.

Hardy garden mums make great plants for flower bed corners and mixed in with other perennials. You can keep them short by pinching them once a week mid-spring until July 4 weekend to keep them bushy.

I let mine grow tall so they are easier to cut for flower arrangements.

More hardy garden mums starting to bloom. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Why Plant Hardy Garden Mums

There are many reasons I plant mums. First they are a natural bug repellent. As a matter of fact many of the “safe” bug sprays are made from pyrethrin which is “eau de mum.”

Secondly, hardy garden mums are easy to grow once they are established. It’s better to buy them in spring if you can find them but most hardy garden mums are available for purchase in the fall. If you plant in fall, plan to give them a gallon of water a month through winter to help their roots get established. If you can mulch with leaves or wood chips that will help protect them as well.

Finally I love having mums because they are one of the longest-lasting cut flowers. As the growing season wanes, having blooming hardy garden mums provides a source of fresh flowers easily through the holidays.

I keep small fresh flower bouquets in several spots around my house. In the photo, besides mums there are pink vincas, red yarrow, dark pink geraniums, yellow mums and blue lavender.

Charlotte

October Gardening Jobs

Time to bring in my favorite red begonias to winter over inside. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

October Gardening Jobs

Out of the four seasons in my garden, this is the most challenging. I have to decide which plants come inside to winter over and which ones I have to leave. And I don’t like to leave any of them!

Our weather forecast for USDA Hardiness Zone 5 is calling for a frost early October and a hard frost mid-November. I’ve brought all of my tropical citrus inside so they can get acclimated to changed conditions before dry heat kicks on.

Some of the other good fall gardening tips this time of year include:

1. Pick herbs before they have flowered to capture the full flavor. Wait until after they have flowered and cut the new herb sprouts to dry for later use. Except for basil.

2. Besides harvesting, this is the time to freeze extras for later use.

3. Start pruning and checking for any hitchhikers on plants that are coming inside for winter. To cut down on leaf drop, bring plants in a month before turning on the heat, which is usually end of October for me.

4. For single plants in separate pots, consider combining them, watering well and then bringing them inside. Even if they only last for a couple of months, they will help to extend the growing season.

5. Water. Perennials, established trees, evergreens and azaleas need one inch of water a week. Water into the ground so the water hydrates plant roots. Keep watering until our first hard frost. For our part of the country, that usually around Halloween.

6. Stop fertilizing and pruning. Wait until January-February to prune after the plants are dormant and you can better see their form.

7. If you have trees with fungus or other issues, collect those leaves and burn or bury into the ground. I leave most of my leaves on flower beds except for diseased ones, don’t want to spread that fungus. Those I bury in the ground.

8.If you haven’t cleaned up flower beds of spent plants, here’s your last chance to gather seeds. Leave some for the birds, they will eat them over winter. Leave the rest to clean up in spring. By then, most of the greenery will have broken down and become part of the garden mulch.

9. Plant spring bulbs. Add a little bone meal at the bottom of the hole to slowly feed the bulbs. Plant bulbs close together if you don’t mind digging them up in a couple of years to separate. If you would rather not, give them more space in between. Mark where you planted them so you don’t dig them up next year when planting something else.

10. Leave the falling leaves where they are. If you are worried about your grass, run the mower over them. Leaves return Nitrogen to the soil and make a wonderful amendment to flower beds and help retain moisture.

11. Plant trees and bushes; make sure to water daily until frost.

And yes, my two young cats love their fresh catnip! (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

12. Even though the fresh catnip pot gets a lot of love, I still bring one in. Maybe I should consider growing catnip in a hanging basket.

13. Enjoy the beauty of fall as leaves turn, native plants bloom and temperatures turn crisp and cool.

Charlotte

December Gardening Chores

Shredded and small dried leaves make good winter mulch. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

December Gardening Chores

At least this year my overwintering nursery won’t get new additions; I will be planting the last of my new plant arrivals this month, hopefully a good 5 weeks before a hard frost. Last year, our soil never froze; the year before it was January. The rapid changes in our climate are showing up in my USDA Hardiness zone 5 garden.

I still have some spring garden bulbs to get in the ground. Sprinkled with bone meal in the hole before placing the bulb, these new garden additions will be fun to see in bloom in only a few months. Or so I remind myself; I miss my green garden wintertime.

Here are some other December gardening chores:

Get broken branches and limbs trimmed before ice hits, or before someone runs into them visiting for the holidays. You know where they are but people new to your property are bound to run into them.

 As soon as a hard frost hits, it will be time to mulch. Mulching maintains the soil at an even temperature. During winter, the point of mulching is to keep plants in hibernation. If you still have shredded leaf piles, move those into flower beds, those will also make good mulch.

 To mulch trees, make a well around the tree trunk and leave an area the width of a tire between the tree trunk and the mulch. When mulching, don’t pile mulch up to the trunk or you will create an area for diseases. Leaving a little moat around the tree also reduces girdling.

 Have empty pots, garden carts, rakes leaning against the side of the house? It’s time to clean them off and store them for the season. The rakes, in particular, you don’t want to step on the tines and hit yourself on the side of the head.

Mulch-covered mums showing new growth; keep them watered over winter. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

If you are planting mums this fall, make sure to get them mulched and regularly watered over the cold months. Leave the dead growth, it will protect the young shoots growing in the plant center.

Empty composters into flower beds. Leave enough to get a new batch started.

Clean out and organize your garden implements so you know which ones need repairs including sharpening. Winter is a good time to get those done.

Did you save seeds this year? Get them in containers and labelled; store seeds in a cool dry space.

Keep an eye out for plant sales. Bulbs are usually half off this time of year and seasonal plants get marked down after the holidays.

Give gardening gifts for the gardeners on your gift list starting with these wonderful gardening gloves with honey.

Finally remember to rest and start planning for next year. If you haven’t already, make notes of what worked well this growing season and what you want to try next year. Before you know it, it will be spring!

Charlotte

Fall Mum Planting

The flowers are dying but the mum can still be planted in the garden. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Fall Mum Planting

Those lovely chrysanthemum flowers have died off and you’re ready to toss the plants but wait. You are looking at the wrong part of the plant.

First, why would you want to save a mum?

Chrysanthemums are natural bug deterring plants. Most of the “organic” bug sprays on the market are made basically out of essence of mums.

Secondly, mums can grow back next year with a little first winter care.

So what are you looking for?

I know it’s tempting to say the plant is done but forget the dead flowers. Carefully part the stems and look at the center. You should see new growth in the center of the plant.

Look at the inside bottom of the plant, if it’s doing well you will see new growth. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Sometimes you will also see growth down the side of the root ball, that’s a good sign, too.

f the stems are still green, chances are there is also new growth in the plant center.

If you don’t see anything at first, look at where the stems split from the center stalks, there may be new growth just starting along the plant stems.

Also check the root ball. If it’s dry, put the whole root ball in a bucket of water and let it rehydrate.

Old totes are good ways to rehydrate dry mums assuming they don’t have holes. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Mums have shallow roots so make sure to get the top watered. I use old beekeeping storage totes although one of them had a hole in the bottom. You want a container that will hold water long enough for the plant to absorb it into its entire root ball.

Once the root ball is saturated and you see new growth, it’s time to get the mums permanently in the garden.

Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball. Water it before you put in the mum to make sure the surrounding soil is saturated. I wait for a good rain before I plant; that way the ground is hydrated and I can more easily dig my limestone hillside.

Break off the bottom 2-3 inches of the root ball in case the roots are bound. I pack that soil back in around the planted root ball.

Place the mum in the dug hole, then tap soil all around it. Water again.

Leave the dead branches; those will help protect the new growth over winter.

Mulch planted mums with leaves around the perimeter to protect new growth. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins0

Again don’t worry about those faded and drooping flowers, keep your eye on the green stems and whatever growth you found in the plant center.

Mulch the plant all around. I use chopped up leaves.

Once we have a hard frost, I will add mulch over the top. Mulch helps to protect the plant from freezing and thawing.

Through winter, check the plant to make sure it’s not dry. Water regularly; a gallon a month per plant.

Now there is no guarantee that these plants will make it through winter but a high percentage of the ones I have planted this way have survived. They may be different shaped and smaller size than the original plant but one growing season will help them get big again.

To keep their round shape next year, pinch them back every few weeks. I use my plant snips to quickly cut the plants back. They also work well to snip off dead flower heads and encourage new flowers.

Here is a mum I planted a couple of months ago now showing new flowers in the center where there is new growth.

Surprise, one of the mums I planted earlier is showing new flowers. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Did I mention that mums also make very long lasting cut flowers?

Charlotte

Compost Autumn Clematis

Autumn clematis vines in one of my composters. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Compost Autumn Clematis

I have a soft spot for climbers and especially the beauty and scent of autumn clematis. Although beautiful, they are not native to my Missouri USDA Hardiness zone 5 garden.

The challenge is that these hardy perennial vines can easily get out of hand and take over; I see hillsides covered in them mid-summer. As a responsible gardener, if I am going to plant them then I need to keep them in check.

Autumn clematis growing on my cattle panel arbors. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins

During the growing season, I keep them trimmed and bushy. They grow over several bent cattle panels forming arbors over hillside pathways.

Once they bloom and before they go to seed, I cut the autumn clematis vines to soil level and compost. The idea is to prevent them from spreading where they aren’t welcome.

The best option would be not to plant these at all and find something as pretty and interesting but less invasive.

Let’s see what I can find for next year.

Charlotte

November Gardening Chores

Time to get these transplanted mums back in the ground. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

November Gardening Chores

If you’ve never been through a home remodel or reconstruction, trust me when I say there are so many unexpected ways it can impact a garden. Even being careful, construction crews will inadvertently break limbs and walk on plants, which is why I moved some of my chrysanthemums out of the way earlier this fall. I garden in USDA Hardiness Zone 5.

With most of the reconstruction now done, it’s time to get the plants back in the ground and mulched so they have a chance to get re-established. As long as the ground is not frozen, fall is an excellent time to plant trees, bushes, perennials and bulbs.

Now that all of my tropical plants are settled inside, I am still moving potted plants around to give them optimum light conditions. With my house heat on, plants are adjusting to the warm conditions by dropping leaves.

Tree leaves have also been busy, from changing color to making their way onto flower beds. I like to use mowed over leaves for a layer of mulch that decomposes into soil over the next few years. I will be adding wood chips from our local recycling center after the first hard frost. The combination will create a plantable bed by next spring.

Missouri’s native tree flowering dogwood leaves turn purple in fall. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Plants continue to need moisture; an inch a week is a good measure, especially for woody plants, such as azaleas and evergreens. When watering, check for damaged branches and remove. Once winter ice moves in, the ice will cause more damage than necessary on those weak and damaged limbs. I take pruners with me so I can also trim out suckers and branches that are too long, especially along where I regularly walk. No point in putting that off until later when the ground is covered in ice and snow.

If you haven’t done so already, this is a good time to empty most of your composters. Most likely candidates to get the new rich soil amendment include asparagus and strawberry beds.  I also added compost to my deck pots to get them ready for my next crops. I still have red onions growing so I may scatter some lettuce and spinach seeds.

Still need to mound my rose crowns with 6 inches of soil or so before the first frost. I have mounds of mulch already piled nearby to scatter on the plants after I add a layer of leaf mulch for extra insulation.

My purple coneflowers bloomed well this year so I have trimmed a few seed heads to plant in my nursery bed next year. The rest I leave for winter bird food.

Have grass to mow? You should be on the downside of the mowing season. Make the last cut when you see grass has stopped growing. Let clippings lie where they’ve been cut to restore Nitrogen to the soil. Have fun mowing over the leaves to shred and move them to flower beds.

Don’t forget to stop and enjoy the fall colors. Trees, shrubs and some perennials take on a different color in fall, changing gardens into new, sometimes surprising color palettes. Take note of something you like and plant more next year.

If you’ve enjoyed daffodils and tulips earlier this year, this is the time to get the bulbs planted. There is a variety of other spring bulbs to plant now including lilies and hyacinths. Check your local home and garden center for the varieties best for your area.

Charlotte

Ten Ways to Use Leaves

Leaves are starting to cover my mulched garden paths. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Leave the Leaves

For years neighbors would ask me why I left my leaves on the garden in the fall. Their main concern was that the leaves would turn the soil too acid for anything to grow.

Besides sitting on the side of a limestone hill surrounded by woods and not having any grass growing, the thought of trying to rake leaves was daunting. When I realized leaves decompose into organic soil conditioners, I was sold. Now more than 30 years since I started this practice, my latest soil test shows the soil - I’m just excited to be able to say I actually have some soil now - is close to the middle of the scale so leaving leaves does not necessarily acidify soil.

Ten Ways to Use Leaves

Since I have so many leaves, and have been known to haul more back home from our recycling center, reconsider bagging that ready powerhouse that you could easily use. Here’s how I use leaves on my hillside:

1. Added to compost bins. Good compost is half green (kitchen scraps) and half brown (leaves). I stuff my composters full of dried leaves in fall. By the time I’m working my garden in the spring I have a ready source of compost waiting for me. Yes, it takes longer for compost to cook over fall and winter but I don’t need it then.

2. I cover all of my flower beds with leaves to protect young plant starts and established perennials from winter ice. I prefer to use mulched leaves for this so I haul those back from our recycling center. By spring it’s amazing how few leaves are left because they slowly decomposed over fall and winter.

3. The decomposed leaves also feed soil microbes, bacteria and mycelium and they, in turn, feed the plants.

4. Flower beds also have open spots for ground nesting bumble bees so the leaves protect those nests. I also have ladybugs and other beneficial insects that depend on leaves for winter cover.

5. If I am planting trees in fall, I line the bottom of the holes with wet leaves to help keep tree roots hydrated.

6. When I remove a hillside limestone rock. I fill the holes with packed leaves so no one will fall into the hole. After a few years, that hole becomes an excellent planting hole full of decomposed leaves that have turned to soil food.

7. In spring, I save whatever leaf pile is left and fill new plant holes with leaves. The leaves hold in water and keep feeding the surrounding soil which feeds my plants.

8. When mulching my paths, which I do about every three years, I will first line the paths with leaves and cardboard, then add the mulch. The cardboard and leaves cuts down on plant growth although I do have some paths I had to move because native plants grew there.

9. If you live in a more urban environment and have a lawn mower, mow your leaves into smaller pieces and rake them onto flower beds. Leave some on your grass, too. The smaller pieces will decompose faster and will feed the soil that’s growing that expensive grass you planted. A good rule of thumb is about half an inch of shredded leaves.

10. Bag your leaves in black plastic bags and stash them where rain and sun will cook them. One of my brothers bagged leaves and forgot about them behind his garage. When I was visiting and helping him clean up the yard, we pulled the bags out and found lovely decomposed leaves that looked like compost. instead of having them hauled off, we spread the composted leaves all over his flower beds. He said the leaves had been sitting there for about a year.

If you don’t have leaves, invite your neighbors to bring over theirs.

The more you use them the more you will appreciate what leaves can do in your garden!

Charlotte

Wintering Tropical Plants

Tropical plants lining up for their fall trimming and spray bath before heading inside for winter. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Wintering Tropical Plants

Plants look like they’re taking a number to wait in line, doesn’t it. In some ways, they are. The tropical and tender plants are getting sorted by size and lighting requirements before they spend the next 6 months inside. Our first hard frost in USDA Hardiness zone 5 is end of the October so these tropicals need to get settled where they can safely survive.

This is a hard time for me. I worry that I will run out of space before I run out of plants so I try to bring in as many as I can. It takes some planning to figure out what goes where for light requirements as well as easy access to those that need more frequent watering.

I try to get these inside before I turn on the house heat so they can adjust to their new space before the temperature changes. If I don’t, leaves fall and it takes longer for the plants to adjust to their new growing conditions. I try to give them at least 4 weeks to adjust inside before I turn on the heat.

Plants with long trunks and stems get tied up so they don’t take up so much room. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

To get potted plants ready for the move inside:

1. Trim each plant of excess growth.

2. Tie up long branches.

3. Check for bugs.

4. Spray with a solution of a quart of water with a squirt of Dawn liquid detergent while wiping off any visible bugs.

5. Remove top 2 inches of soil; replace with new potting soil to remove any dormant bugs.

6. Separate into lighting requirements.

7. Clean bottom dish; replace with sturdy larger ones to help humidity those that need extra humidity.

8. Add castors to bottom of heavy plants.

9. Shake plant to remove hitchhikers like tree frogs, praying mantis and, one year, a chipmunk; that was exciting.

Most of my plants have been with me for a number of years so they have favorite wintering spots already reserved. Newcomers are harder to fit in to ensure they get sun so I sometimes set them on pot stands.

I do - grouse is a good word - as I move furniture to bring in the greenery, it can take me a good week or so. My cats enjoy finding hitchhikers but I would rather not be greeted by a lizard, or more commonly a frog, sitting on my kitchen counter.

One of my tropical fruit trees surprised me with a fresh lime; okay front of the line for you! (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

The tropical fruit trees are wonderful to have inside over winter. They tend to bloom in January and February, filing my rooms up with a lovely fresh scent.

This year we also have another very special addition, a pot of fresh catnip that needs to find a good sunny spot.

I don’t know what I was thinking, the fresh catnip lasted only a week inside. James A Mess now has the pot to sun in for the rest of winter. Note to self: plant catnip in hanging pots for next winter.

This is James A Mess’s favorite fresh catnip pot which will be coming inside with the rest. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

It’s a bit of a fuss right now but when that first snowfall starts, with temperatures in the single digits and I’m warm and surrounded by flowering greenery….that makes me very happy.

Charlotte

October Gardening Chores

Even though there’s little left, this catnip pot will be coming inside for winter. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins))

October Gardening Chores

Of all of the plants that will transition from my deck inside for winter, I have one very sorry pot of catnip that is a must. My little tuxedo cat James A Mess claimed the pot earlier this spring and loves to roll in what remains of the catnip plant. I doubt poor catnip plant will survive winter being so well loved but it will get a prominent spot in the sun. And I’m sure James will continue to enjoy it.

Out of the four seasons in my garden, this is the most challenging. I have to decide which plants come inside to winter over and which ones I have to leave. And I don’t like to leave any of them!

Our weather forecast for USDA Hardiness Zone 5 is calling for a hard frost around Halloween. I’ve already started to bring the tropical hibiscus inside so they can get acclimated to changed conditions before the dry heat kicks on.

Some of the other good fall gardening tips this time of year include:

1. Pick herbs before they have flowered to capture the full flavor. Wait until after they have flowered and cut the new herb sprouts to dry for later use. Except for basil.

2. Besides harvesting, this is the time to freeze extras for later use.

3. Start pruning and checking for any hitchhikers on plants that are coming inside for winter. To cut down on leaf drop, bring plants in a month before turning on the heat, which is usually early October.

4. For single plants in separate pots, consider combining them, watering well and then bringing them inside. Even if they only last for a couple of months, they will help to extend the growing season.

5. Water. Perennials, established trees, evergreens and azaleas need one inch of water a week. Water into the ground so the water hydrates plant roots. Keep watering until our first hard frost. For our part of the country, that usually around Halloween.

6. Stop fertilizing and pruning. Wait until January-February to prune after the plants are dormant and you can better see their form.

The gift passion vine, left, and Little Hottie hydrangea, right, are ready and waiting to be planted outside. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

7. If you have trees with fungus or other issues, collect those leaves and burn or bury into the ground. I leave most of my leaves on flower beds except for diseased ones, don’t want to spread that fungus. Those I bury in the ground.

8.If you haven’t cleaned up flower beds of spent plants, here’s your last chance to gather seeds. Leave some for the birds, they will eat them over winter. Leave the rest to clean up in spring. By then, most of the greenery will have broken down and become part of the garden mulch.

9. Plant spring bulbs. Add a little bone meal at the bottom of the hole to slowly feed the bulbs. Plant bulbs close together if you don’t mind digging them up in a couple of years to separate. If you would rather not, give them more space in between. Mark where you planted them so you don’t dig them up next year when planting something else.

10. Leave the falling leaves where they are. If you are worried about your grass, run the mower over them. Leaves return Nitrogen to the soil and make a wonderful amendment to flower beds and help retain moisture.

11. Plant trees and bushes; make sure to water daily until frost.

And yes, my two young cats love their fresh catnip! (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

12. Stop long enough to enjoy the beauty of fall as leaves turn, native plants bloom and temperatures turn crisp and cool. A hot cup of tea with fresh honey sounds good about now, too!

Charlotte

Coleus Flowers

These lovely blue flowers are among not often seen flowering coleus. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Coleus Flowers

Most people recognize these plants when they see them. The general family of coleus plants features a wide range of colors and shapes, all provided by the varied leaves of this annual plant.

One of the features not often seen are coleus flowers. Once the plant blooms and goes to seed, the plant tends to not grow as vigorously. Many people pinch off the flowers to help extend the vigor and life of this easy and hardy summer gardening staple.

True blue flowers are rare in gardens so i was delighted to see that these inherited coleus flowers were indeed blue. Coupled with their colorful leaves, the blue flowers were a pretty combination.

Gardeners tend to select coleus more for their leaf color and shape than flower color. The leaves have a variety of shapes as well as color combinations.

There’s a wide range of coleus with different leaf shapes and colors. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

In addition to interesting green leaves, coleus can also have other strong leaf shapes and color combinations, very similar to the range of mixed fabrics that can be found in handmade quilts like a Flower Garden Quilt. . Here are a couple of coleus plants now wintering over inside my house in a shade pot.

At least two different coleus wintering over in one of my shade pots. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Growing outside, coleus provide a pop of color through the summer growing season usually in a shady spot.

Right now they are adding nice unexpected color inside in my living room.

Coleus plants blooming inside in my living room window. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Coleus can easily be grown from both seeds and from cuttings rooted in water.

My goal is to see if I can get these potted coleus to make it through winter inside so they have an earlier start in next year’s growing season.

Charlotte