Homemade Seed Tape

Paper towels make a good base for saving seeds to plant later. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photoo)

Homemade Seed Tape

Do you remember seed tape?

It was popular a couple of decades ago and sold as an easy way to garden. The package someone gave me for Christmas back then included 1x8 foot tissue paper with seeds glued between two layers. I planted the roll but nothing grew from it that year.

But the concept stayed in the back of my mind.

Then one year when I was traveling I saved some seeds in a paper towel and a new idea was born. I can make my own version of seed tape and ensure it’s from a stock I like.

Two years ago, I started to save my favorite tomato seeds from the plants I was growing. My experiment was with cherry tomatoes, which I grow every year in pots.

Favorite tomato seeds can be pricey to make sure you know the source. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Now it’s easy to say why bother until you start to see the prices for tomato seeds.

So how do you save the seeds?

Open the fruit you want to collect seeds from and spread them across a paper towel. Label. Allow to dry. Other fruit you can try include strawberries, green peppers and - what else would you like to try?

Don’t forget to label the seeds as they dry, then cut out the corner and store in an envelope. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Once dry, save in paper envelopes. You can recycle envelopes by cutting them in half and taping the cut end. Remember to label the outside of envelope. Store in a dry place until it’s time to plant.

You can also do this with other seeds.

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Charlotte

How to Hang Birdhouses

Tufted titmouse checking out one of my birdhouses february 2024. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

How to Hang Birdhouses

Sixty percent of bird species depend on bugs to feed their young, making birds an important element in gardens to balance the ecosystems. 

If you are just starting your living bird collection, take a walk around your garden and look for spots that offer protection from predators and prevailing winds, and access to food and water. I have bird baths around my property as well as small rainwater ponds to encourage birds to settle in.

If you're buying birdhouses, most come with directions on what birds may move in and where to best hang the birdhouses.

Here's a quick guide on where to place birdhouses for Eastern Bluebirds, Wrens, Titmice and Cardinals.

1. Eastern Bluebirds:

   • Preferred Entrance Hole Size: 1.5 inches

   • Habitat Preference: Open woodlands, orchards, fields, and along the edges of forests.

   • Nesting Box Placement: Mount bluebird houses on posts or poles about 4 to 6 feet above the ground, facing towards an open area. Bluebirds prefer a little bit of distance between their nesting spot and dense vegetation.

2. Wrens:

   • Preferred Entrance Hole Size: 1 inch

   • Habitat Preference: Woodlands, suburban areas, and gardens with dense shrubbery.

   • Nesting Box Placement: Hang wren houses in a sheltered area, such as under eaves or tree branches, about 6 to 10 feet above the ground. Wrens often prefer locations that offer some protection from the elements.

   • They are also known to build several nests they don't use. Observe your wren houses to determine which ones are actually occupied. These birds are fun to hear and watch.

3. Titmice:

   • Preferred Entrance Hole Size: 1.25 inches

   • Habitat Preference: Woodlands, forests, parks, and suburban areas with mature trees.

   • Nesting Box Placement: Mount titmouse houses on trees or posts about 6 to 15 feet above the ground. Place them in a somewhat secluded area with moderate vegetation cover.

4. Cardinals:

   • Habitat Preference: Brushy areas, woodlands, gardens, and suburban areas with thick shrubbery.

   • Nesting Box Placement: Cardinals prefer to build nests in protected shrubs. Every year I find nests in my old-fashioned lilac bushes. I entice them by providing sunflower seeds through early spring. 

One final note. I've had frogs in wren houses and bumblebees in bluebird houses so birdhouses can be homes to more than just birds.

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Charlotte

Getting Soil Tested

Getting soil samples is as easy as scooping up soil from around your garden. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Time to Test Soil

As spring fever hits, this is the perfect time to get your soil tested. Of all of the things we can do to make our gardens better, knowing what kind of soil we have, and what will grow best in it, is by far the most important step we can take. And it tends to cure black thumbs!

A sil test will help assess the current state of your soil and make recommendations of how to improve it for what you want to plant.

I did my first soil test through the University of Missouri Extension a couple of decades ago and repeat it every 2-3 years. Working a Missouri limestone hillside into a garden, it’s helpful to monitor how the soil amendments I have added change the soil composition.

Soil is assessed on a scale of 1-14. A middle seven is neutral. The chart extremes are sweet, higher than 7+ , and bitter, lower than 7. That’s what the Ph designation tells you. To successfully grow most plants, you want a good solid seven. On either end, blueberries and hydrangeas prefer a little more acid growing conditions; butterfly bushes and lilacs prefer sweeter soil.

How to Collect Soil for Sampling

Using a freezer bag, collect 1 1/2 cups of soil from 6-8 spots around the garden from about 6 inches deep - if you can dig that deep.

Seal it up and take it to your local University of Missouri Extension office with $15. You will need to tell them what kind of plants you want to raise to get the most out of your soil test results.

Within a couple of weeks, the soil test report will be emailed to you with the results and recommendations, as appropriate.

The following are a couple of soil test examples, starting with a home garden.

Example Home Garden Soil Test

This home garden soil test shows recommendations at bottom. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

The soil test results are a little different for a field soil test.

Example Field Soil Test

A field test soil example covers more elements. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

My One Acre Limestone Hillside Soil Test April 2019

Over the years, friends have asked how I grow what I grow on a limestone hillside garden, where my first neighbors said “nothing would grow.” For 35 years i have concentrated on adding organic matter to existing soil and being kind to the soil I do have.

My limestone hillside garden soil test from April 2019. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

How to Improve Soil

At first blush, my Missouri limestone hillside garden should be acidic because I let the oak leaves fall on garden beds and only rake those that get in my way. Leaves, by the way, are excellent mulch and provide winter cover for a number of beneficial insects.

To improve my soil - well, actually to create soil - I added wood chips from our local recycling center along with compost. In addition, shredded leaves with grass clippings were also incorporated. These were added after the wood chips and shredded leaves sit for a few months as a mulch cover.

And to naturally enrich soil, I have wildlife branch piles that have encouraged rabbits, which add to enriching the soil. And they’re big. I snuck out into my apiary at 4 a.m. to close up a hive a couple of years ago and was astounded at the wildlife moving around, including one very large (and quite surprised as I was) rabbit. Maybe it was because I was standing down hill and the rabbit was uphill but that was one big “bun bun.”

Regardless of your soil test results, the best way to improve soil is to compost. Compost helps to feed the microorganisms in soil that keep plants healthy. You can start by composting kitchen scraps and gradually move to composters and composting bins. It really is the best thing you can do for your soil and plants and not hard to do once you establish the habit.

Did you know soil is not replaceable? Let’s take good cre of the soil we have!

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Charlotte

Making Toilet Paper Roll Pots

Toilet paper rolls cut in half make excellent seed starting pots. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Toilet Paper Roll Pots

If you haven’t already, this is a good time to start saving your toilet paper and paper towel rolls to make compostable seed pots.

The rolls are not only hardy enough to help seedlings grow but they can be buried in the ground, seedlings and pot, when they are ready to go outside.

To make these seed pots, cut the toilet paper roll in half. Then gently fold the half and make a 1/4 inch cut on each folded side. Refold and make similar cuts on the edge of the other fold.

Tuck the folds as you would a box.

Fill with new potting soil.

Before planting, I spray soil with water so the seedlings can easily settle in.

Cardboard egg cartons are a good place to start your seeds. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

For small seeds, I start them in cardboard egg cartons. When they are big enough, I can easily move them into the toilet paper roll pots.

The cardboard egg carton lid serves as a nice place to store the toilet paper rolls ready for the seedling transfer.

You can also start seeds in your toilet paper roll pots and keep them warm and moist. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

If you don’t have access to extra cardboard egg cartons, you can use a clear covered plastic container to start seeds in the toilet paper roll pots.

The trick is to keep the seeds warm and moist until they sprout.

Make small holes in the bottom of the clear top container so that the seeds don’t get too wet.

All of these kitchen items can be repurposed into seed starting options. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photos)

There are several kitchen items you can repurpose for gardening. My biggest challenge is finding somewhere to put them as I save them before using!

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Charlotte

Birds Natural Pest Control

time to rehab bird houses and install them wrapping thick wire around trees. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Birds Natural Pest Control

My 42-year old garden has welcomed birds literally for decades. Their garden presence has provided natural pest controls since 60% of all bird species depend on insects for food. Birds play a crucial role in natural pest control by contributing to a balanced ecosystem. Here are ten ways in which birds act as effective pest controllers in gardens:

1. Insect Predation: Many birds, such as sparrows, warblers, and chickadees, feed on insects like caterpillars, beetles, and aphids. They help keep insect populations in check, preventing them from damaging plants.

2. Seed-Eating Birds: Birds like finches and sparrows consume seeds, reducing the number of volunteer plants in your garden. This helps in maintaining a healthier and more organized garden environment.

3. Slug and Snail Control: Thrushes, robins, and ducks are known to consume slugs and snails. These pests can be detrimental to plants.

4. Caterpillar Control: Insectivorous birds, especially during the breeding season, actively seek out caterpillars to feed their nestlings. This helps prevent caterpillar damage to plants and supports bird populations simultaneously.

5. Mosquito and Fly Predation: Birds like swallows and purple martins are skilled aerial hunters, preying on mosquitoes, flies, and other flying insects.

6. Spider Consumption: Insectivorous birds also feed on spiders, which can be beneficial for managing spider populations in and around your garden.

7. Ant Control: Birds such as nuthatches and woodpeckers feed on ants and their larvae. This can help control ant populations, preventing them from damaging plants and disrupting garden ecosystems.

8. Fruit Pest Management: Birds like orioles and mockingbirds feed on fruit pests, including fruit flies and beetles. By doing so, they protect fruit crops from infestations.

9. Ground-Foraging Birds: Birds that forage on the ground, such as towhees and sparrows, help control pests like ground-dwelling insects and weed seeds, contributing to a healthier garden floor.

10. Nesting Site Selection: Some birds, like bluebirds and wrens, choose nesting sites strategically near gardens. As they forage for food to feed their young, they assist in pest control within the garden environment.

By encouraging a diverse bird population and providing suitable habitats, you can enhance the natural pest control services that birds offer to your garden.

Installing bird houses, bird feeders and bird baths establish a bird-friendly environment that support these helpful garden allies.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Top 13 Gardening Tools

some of my favorite gardening tools are not found in garden centers. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Top 13 Gardening Tools

Several friends are starting to garden this year and have asked for a list of the top gardening tools they need. Here is my list with some substitutes:

1. Hand Trowel: A hand trowel is a small, handheld tool with a pointed, scoop-shaped metal blade. It's ideal for digging small holes, transplanting seedlings, and breaking up soil.

2. Garden Knife or Hori Hori: Sometimes called a soil knife, this multipurpose tool originally from Japan is a combination of a knife and a trowel. It's excellent for digging, cutting roots, weeding, and many other tasks. The only downside is the blade can be sharp so be careful not to get cut.

3. Pruning Shears: Also known as hand pruners, these are essential for cutting small branches, trimming plants, and deadheading flowers. Look for a sharp, high-quality pair for clean cuts.

4. Pruning Saw: For larger branches that pruning shears can't handle, a pruning saw is essential. It's great for shaping shrubs and trees, and it ensures clean cuts for the plant's health.

5. Garden Gloves: Protect your hands from thorns, blisters, and dirt with a sturdy pair of garden gloves. Choose gloves that fit well and provide good dexterity. My favorite pair came from the children’s section. I bought several pairs in the same pattern so if one wears out, I have another one.

6. Galoshes: If you have a lot of rain, keep a pair of galoshes handy. Tennis shoes and gardening slides will only take you so far.

7. Sun Hat: Besides using sunscreen, find a hat that comfortably fits on your head. It's easy to forget how long one has been out in the garden exposed to sun. 

8. Rake or Pick Ax: A garden rake is useful for leveling soil, spreading mulch, and gathering leaves. It comes in handy for cleaning up your garden beds and maintaining a tidy appearance. Except for scooping up leaves, I use pick axes to level soil and spread mulch.

9. Watering Can and Hose: A watering can is great for targeted watering, especially for containers or smaller areas. A hose with an adjustable nozzle is versatile for various larger watering needs.

10. Wheelbarrow or Garden Cart: Moving soil, compost, mulch, or plants becomes much easier with a wheelbarrow or garden cart. It helps reduce the strain on your back and allows you to transport materials efficiently. I have a garden cart since a wheelbarrow tends to take off on its own own my hillside.

11. Garden Fork: A garden fork is designed for breaking up and aerating soil. It's especially useful in clay or compacted soil, allowing for better water and nutrient penetration.

12. Soil Tester: Knowing your soil's pH is crucial for understanding its acidity or alkalinity. This information helps you choose plants that will thrive in your garden. I haven’t found a home soil tester that’s reliable so I take samples to our local Extension office every other year.

13. Catalogs: If you are new to gardening, get a few catalogs to start identifying what you want to plant and whether you have the right conditions. Many suppliers offer free catalogs you can order online and you could buy the world’s largest seed catalog for sheer fun.

Also take time to learn how to maintain your tools, such as cleaning and sharpening. Good care will extend the life of your tools.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

World's Largest Seed Catalog

My birthday gift to myself this year was paying $14.95 for a seed catalog. This isn’t just any seed catalog, it’s the world’s largest seed catalog. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

World’s Largest Seed Catalog

One of the ways gardeners prepare for a new season is by getting catalogs. Even in years when I didn’t have much time for my garden, my cold winters were brighter curled up with a pile of garden catalogs.

This year, I treated myself to the world’s largest seed catalog, more than 500 pages of beautiful plant photos sprinkled with recipes.

one of the hallmarks of this catalog is their lovely photography. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

The catalog is from Baker Seed Company, a Missouri business focused on offering heirloom seeds from around the world. Based in Mansfield, Missouri, the company sponsors a yearly festival in May, which is usually the last hard frost of the season for our area.

From their website:

“Founder Jere Gettle started Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co. in 1998 as a hobby, and though it has since grown into North America's largest heirloom seed company, we've never lost our passion for growing and sharing heirloom varieties. Baker Creek offers one of the largest selections of 19th century heirloom seeds from Europe and Asia, and our catalogs now feature about 1,000 stunning heirloom varieties.”

some of the nectar-producing plant seeds baker creek offers. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

To no one’s surprise, I check for plants that provide bees and pollinators food.

If you have someone in your circle interested in getting started gardening this year, Baker Creek also offers a smaller, 163-page free catalog. It’s a great addition to a basket with gardening gloves, pruners and a couple of seed packets to cultivate the gardening interest.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Zooming Right Along

one of the most important pieces of equipment is a furry seat warmer. Somehow they know just when they are needed. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Zooming Right Along

I’ve been getting requests following my online lectures and podcast appearances about how to best set up for doing online meetings and lectures. As a former radio and TV producer, the simplicity and quality of today’s technology is amazing. Whether you are lecturing or having a family chat or reunion online, some key elements remain the same:

Both podcasting and online meetings/lecturing have to have excellent sound. There is no compromising here. Planning needs to go into getting a quality microphone and eliminating background sounds during the recordings and presentations. I have to silence my bonging clocks and entice my cats into the bedroom so they don’t inadvertently participate. Although Shirley Honey could have a fan club for the number of times she’s photo bombed a lecture wanting a treat.

Recently I also had to reschedule a siding company so they weren’t hammering on the house during a podcast. Think ahead to clear your path for a quiet time without competition.

Define your niche. If you are lecturing, develop a quick definition of what you’re going to talk about. Test it for clarity. Check keywords to find what will resonate best with your audience. It may be short but it may take you the longest to define.

I, for example, am at the crossroads between beekeeping and gardening. My lectures, and next book, are about why we need to plant for pollinators. My message started with a TEDx and will continue through my beekeeping reference books. Kim Flotum said I am revolutionizing the way beekeeping is taught. I prefer to think of it as my message is a healthy dose of common sense.

Podcasting/Radio Interviews

• If you are the podcaster, plan your episodes in advance and consider scripting, especially if you're new to podcasting. This helps you stay organized and ensures a smoother delivery.

• If you are a podcast guest, the host will usually provide a series of questions he/she plans to ask. They usually ask you for suggestions as well.

  Think through your answers. Tape yourself delivering them and edit as you listen back. Make it interactive. Don’t go on and on lecturing.

Quality Audio

• Invest in a good microphone to ensure high-quality audio. USB microphones like the Blue Yeti. One of my recent podcast hosts recommended Audio-Technica ATR2100x (no paid affiliation)

Recording and Editing Software

• Use reliable recording software such as Audacity (free) or Adobe Audition. These tools also allow you to edit your recordings for a polished final product.

Hosting Platform

• If you are hosting, choose a podcast hosting platform like Libsyn, Podbean, or Anchor to publish and distribute your episodes.

Branding

1. Create eye-catching cover art and establish a consistent brand for your podcast. This helps in attracting and retaining listeners.

   Online Discussions/Lectures/Presentations

   Being comfortable working online was one of the outcomes of our imposed COVID quarantine in 2020. However, it still takes some advance planning to do it well, and particularly well enough if you’re getting paid.

   Be Familiar with Your Platform

   Whatever platform you are using, understand the features, such as screen sharing, breakout rooms, chats, and Q&A sessions. Practice with a friend, The days of listeners hanging on for long periods as you try to find the chat button are gone. You should at least know the basics. This will enhance your ability to engage with your audience.

   Quality Webcam and Lighting

   1. Invest in a decent webcam for clear video. Most computer cameras are low quality and grainy, especially projected on a big screen.

      2. Good lighting is also crucial for visibility, so position yourself facing a natural light source. I would also invest in a small light ring.

Quality Microphone

• While many webcams have built-in microphones, consider using an external microphone for better audio quality.

Test Your Equipment

• Always test your equipment (camera, microphone, internet connection) before the lecture to make sure everything is working well. Also check your weather forecast, sometimes weather can interrupt a good signal.

What to Wear

Remember when you are online you don’t what to wear a color that screams nor one that makes you fade. Try out several options and select 2-3 colors that compliment your seating background.

Record Your Lectures

6. Record your lectures for future reference. You can review for possible . improvements. Someone who missed the lecture will also tend to ask if there is an available recording.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Winter Sowing

Forecasters are calling for more snow and below 0 Fahrenheit temperatures so good time to get those native seeds winter sown. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Winter Sowing

Winter sowing is a way to start seeds outdoors during winter months, allowing them to naturally germinate when conditions are right in the spring. It’s also an excellent way to give seeds that need cold exposure that cold treatment they need to germinate, such as purple coneflowers and black-eyed susans, both excellent pollinator plants.

Here's a guide on how to winter sow in repurposed milk jugs using Black-Eyed Susan seeds:

What you will need

1. Empty, clean plastic milk jugs or bottles

2. Utility knife or scissors

3. Potting soil

4. Black-eyed susan seeds (or purple coneflower seeds)

5. Spray bottle with water

6. Tape (as in duck tape)

7. Marker

   How to get milk jugs ready

   As you collect milk jugs, wash them thoroughly, allow to dry and store. I kept mine in plastic garbage bags so they didn’t take up a lot of storage room.

   Pierce or cut several drainage holes in the bottom of the bottle first. Use a nail, heated skewer, or the tip of your scissors or knife. Be careful not to puncture your hand.

   Then use a utility knife or scissors to cut the bottles horizontally around the middle, leaving the handle intact on one side. It’s hard to punch holes in the bottom once the milk jug is cut in half. The bottom half will serve as a mini greenhouse.

   Add a layer of potting soil into the bottom section of the bottle, filling it about one-third of the way.

remove lids if you haven’t already, you won’t need them. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Plant black-eyed Susan seeds

I confess, I saved a lot of seeds earlier in the season so I was ready to plant. If you don’t have seeds, check your local home and garden center, most have a supply all year.

Break up black-eyed susan seed heads and sprinkle over the soil surface. I’m always surprised at how many seeds come out of one little flower head. You can lightly press them into the soil but don’t bury them too deeply. These seeds require light to germinate.

Dust the seeds with soil.

Close the top part of the bottle over the bottom, securing it with tape. This creates a miniature greenhouse effect. Remove milk jugs lids; you won’t need them.

Label the container with the plant name and the date of sowing using a marker. I just add an initial so that I know which seeds I planted.

Place milk jugs outdoors

Find a suitable outdoor location that receives partial sun to full sun. An area protected from harsh winds is ideal.

Set the prepared milk jugs on the ground. You can also bury them halfway in the soil to stabilize them.

Check the containers occasionally to ensure the soil remains slightly moist but not waterlogged. If the soil appears dry, spray water over it just to keep it moist.

As the temperatures increase in the spring, the seeds will naturally germinate when conditions are favorable.

Transplanting Seedlings

Once the seedlings have grown a few inches tall and have developed several sets of leaves, they can be carefully transplanted into larger pots or directly into the garden bed. I wait until after the last frost to transplant directly into the garden.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Envelope Seed Packets

These saved marigold seeds are now ready to be stored until spring. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Envelope Seed Packets

With many of us not needing paper envelopes to mail in bills, why not save them to package saved seeds.

You can use them for other things as well but I usually have more seeds than I have ways to save them.

The return envelopes with the clear window work best so that you can see what seeds are inside.

mark your seed envelopes with at least the year for the seeds, if not the variety. (charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Helps also to mark the envelopes with at least the year of the seeds, if not the seed variety. I can identify most seeds but not all so I also add the plant name to the date. Well, I should although I’ve been known to say to myself you’ll recognize these seeds, then don’t.

Store the seeds in a dry place. I keep baskets around the house where I can keep all of my seed packets together. You can pick up baskets at thrift stores.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Snow Pros and Cons

gardens turn gray and dark during and after snow storms. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Snow Pros and Cons

Today's topic is a different way to look at snow and ice. I live in mid-Missouri, the bellybutton of the state, and USDA Hardiness zone 6A. The hardiness zone is used by gardeners to help select plants that will survive in our particular temperatures. We have been getting progressively warmer over the years amidst a continuing drought so having rain, and snow, in our upcoming forecast, is cause to celebrate. 
The challenge with snow where I live is that it can start out as rain; as temperatures drop turn to ice, then rain turning to snow covers ice. I stay home during these storms, stocked up with books, cat food and hot chocolate. A dear friend lost her husband 31 years ago driving in ice; I remember her loss every time we have ice in the forecast.
But winter precipitation is more than danger and inconvenience, it's actually an important part of a garden's winter season. Here's how:

Insulation: Snow acts as a natural insulator, providing a layer of protection to plants, soil, native bees and bees in hives, from extreme cold temperatures. This insulation can help prevent frost damage to plants' roots, protect native bees hibernating in the ground and keep bees in their hive clusters.
Protective Cover: Snow can also act as a protective cover for certain plants, shielding them from harsh winds and reducing the chances they dry out. I think of snow as white mulch.
Dormancy: Some plants require a period of cold temperatures to go through dormancy, and snow helps to facilitate this process, promoting healthier growth when spring arrives.
Nutrients: Snow contains trace amounts of nutrients that are beneficial to plants. As it melts, these nutrients are released into the soil, providing a natural fertilizing effect.
Moisture: As snow melts, it also adds moisture to the soil. This can be beneficial, especially in regions where water is scarce during the winter months. The slow melting process also allows the moisture to deeply penetrate the soil, helping to supplement the low water tables.

On the other hand, ice and snow has its garden challenges.

Excess Moisture: In some cases, heavy or prolonged snowfall can lead to excess moisture in the soil, causing problems such as root rot in certain plants that are sensitive to waterlogged conditions. It can also kill hibernating native bees inn soil. If moisture gets into bee hives, it can kill the colonies. Bees don't die from cold but they do perish from moisture.
Compaction: Snow can contribute to soil compaction, especially if it becomes densely packed. Compacted soil restricts root growth and hampers water infiltration. You don't want people walking over flower beds when snow is melting.
Disease: Snow cover can create conditions conducive to the development of certain plant diseases, especially if the snow remains for an extended period. Think fungal infections.
Weight on Branches: Wet, heavy snow can accumulate on tree branches, causing them to bend or break under the weight. This can lead to damage to trees and shrubs. Another reason to carefully prune fruit trees after their third year of growth; the right pruning can help branch development.
Delayed Spring: In regions with prolonged snow cover, the arrival of spring may be delayed. This can impact the growing season including native and honey bees.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

What else can you think of in terms of pros and cons of snow and ice?

Charlotte

2024 New Year's Goals

Getting a start on planning for 2024 deciding whether to start with planting zinnias again. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

2024 New Year’s Goals

I don't make New Year's resolutions. Well, I do, but I don't call them resolutions; goals seem less imposing and more achievable.

I start by reviewing last year's accomplishments and think through what I didn't get to this past year. Grow more zinnias usually kicked off every list for the last 5 years. Keeping a written diary is very helpful because I don't always remember the things that worked well, and those that didn't or that I forget. Note the five entries on zinnias. The more measurable the better but not always; 1982 was the year I tried all forms of raspberries. Yum.

1. Ditch invasives and go native. Opt for local native plants that support your ecosystem and pollinators. Identify what natives you already have growing and encourage them by staking and mulching them. You can get some good starts at George O. White State Nursery for Missouri; they will also sell out of state and include many Midwest natives such as Eastern Redbud tree seedlings. 

2. Know your native bees. Most people I know can identify bumblebees and maybe carpenter bees but none of the other native bees. Can you spot native bees in your garden? Native bees are the endangered ones so identify how you can support them by planting natives, leaving leaf litter and plant stalks.

3. Learn your pollinators: Learn which pollinators frequent your area - think butterflies, bats, birds - and choose blooms to attract them. Offer watering spots and housing. Bat houses not only help these pollinators but they will help keep mosquito populations in check.

4. Build healthy soil: Learn to compost and use natural amendments to nurture the foundation of your garden. We in US toss out 40% of our food, why not use kitchen scraps to nurture soil that nurtures our food?

5. H2O Hero: Install efficient irrigation, utilize rainwater harvesting, and mulch generously to conserve soil moisture. I love my rainwater saving totes and am working on redesigning parts of my garden to collect even more rain.

6. Get growing your own: Challenge yourself to grow more of your own food! Start with easy-to-grow veggies such as lettuce and radishes, and herbs; basil, chives, mint. You don't need a huge garden; start with pots. 

7. Embrace the "wow": Experiment with colors, textures, and heights to create a visually stunning oasis. If you use natives, they will do better than any exotic plants you import and will be very kind to your pocket book. They also have a better chance of surviving. Look around you and be inspired.

8. Double up: Rethink how many times you run around town and reduce your car use and fossil fuel emissions. COVID taught us how to stay home and plan ahead. Keep those skills alive by bunching up errands and cutting down your driving.

9. Repurpose: Whether clothes, furniture and whatever else you already have, rethink how to use it before buying new. If you can't, donate; help reduce landfill contributions.

10. Mindful moments: Make time for quiet reflection in your garden, appreciating the activity you see as your garden becomes a healthy ecosystem hosting pollinators and other garden residents. 

These are starting points. What are your goals for the new year?

Charlotte

Planting Daffodils

I still have daffodils to get into the groung this year. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Planting Daffodils

Oh, my, so many daffodils to still get into the ground and I’m running out of time. Usually I get my daffodil bulbs planted September-November but I’m behind schedule this year. Luckily our ground in mid-Missouri is not frozen so I still have time to get these lovelies into the ground.'

In general, daffodils need 12 weeks exposed to cold temperatures around freezing. These temperatures stimulate a bio-chemical response that generates root growth and gets flowers started.

Here are some tips if you’re joining me getting daffodil bulbs planted:

1. I ordered my bulbs in spring for fall delivery from a reputable provider. If you are buying bulbs from a nursery or garden center, select healthy, firm bulbs, the larger the bulbs the better.

2. Plant daffodil bulbs in the fall before the ground freezes, ideally 2-4 weeks before the first frost date in your area. However, if you miss the fall window, you can still plant them in winter before the ground becomes too hard.

3. Daffodils prefer well-drained soil and full to partial sunlight. Choose a location with good drainage to prevent water logging, This can cause bulb rot.

4. Ensure the soil is loose, well-draining, and amended with organic matter like compost. Loosen the soil to a depth of at least 6-8 inches.

5. Plant bulbs at a depth about three times the bulb's height. Place them with the pointed end facing up.

6. Space bulbs several inches apart to allow them room to grow and spread. If you want a more dramatic show, plant bulbs close together remembering you may have to move them in a few years when they stop blooming because they are growing too close.

7. Dig a hole or trench for the bulbs. You can plant them individually or in groups. After placing the bulbs, cover them with soil and gently press down to remove air pockets.

8. Remember to sprinkle the holes with bone meal to feed bulbs as they grow.

9. After planting, water the area thoroughly to settle the soil and provide initial moisture to the bulbs.

10. Apply a layer of mulch uch as shredded leaves to help insulate the soil and regulate temperature during winter. This can also prevent frost heaving.

    One more note: As our climate continues to warm up, there is less moisture in the form of rain and snow. During the winter, if there's a period of drought or the soil dries out due to lack of snow cover, consider lightly watering the bulbs.

    For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

    Charlotte

Winter Mulch; Protecting Plants

A new supply of free recycling center wood chips are wintering over for next year use. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Winter Mulch; Protecting Plants

Winter is a resting time for both gardeners and gardens. One of the last garden activities should be to mulch, which can be the difference between surviving and thriving in spring. Mulching during winter is more than a routine task; it's a strategic defense mechanism that shields your garden from harsh elements while nurturing soil beneath the frosty surface.

Here are crucial steps to effectively mulch your garden over winter and why they're vital for a spring flourishing garden.

1. Apply a Layer of Compost: Before mulching, apply a thin layer of compost to provide additional nutrients to the soil. Compost enriches the soil, supporting microbial activity and enhancing overall soil health.

2. Select the Right Mulch Material: Choose appropriate mulch materials such as straw, shredded leaves, wood chips, or pine needles based on your garden's needs. Different materials offer varying insulation, moisture retention, and nutrient benefits.

3. Mulch Around Plants and Trees: Apply mulch around the base of plants, leaving a small gap between the mulch and plant stems or trunks. This helps retain moisture, regulates soil temperature, and inhibits weed growth.

4. Layer Mulch Appropriately: Layer mulch at a sufficient depth (typically 2-4 inches) to provide insulation without smothering plants. Thicker mulch layers insulate better but ensure proper air circulation to prevent issues like rot.

5. Focus on Vulnerable Areas: Pay extra attention to vulnerable areas, such as newly planted trees or shallow-rooted plants. These areas require thicker mulch layers to protect them from freezing temperatures.

6. Avoid Mulch Piling against Stems: Ensure that mulch doesn’t directly touch the stems or trunks of plants and trees. Direct contact can invite pests and diseases while potentially causing stem rot.

7. Monitor and Refresh Mulch as Needed: Periodically check the mulch throughout winter. If it thins out due to weather conditions or decomposition, add a fresh layer to maintain adequate protection.

8. Reap the Benefits in Spring: Understand that these steps aren't just about surviving winter but setting the stage for a vibrant garden in spring. Mulching conserves moisture, prevents soil erosion, and promotes healthy soil, ensuring a bountiful growing season ahead.

The careful application of mulch during winter is an investment in the future health and beauty of your garden.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

After Rain Chores

A gift crabapple tree is going in where a cherry tree died last year. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

After Rain Chores

Besides my pick axes and boots, rain is the next favorite garden assistant. When you plant on a limestone hillside, rain is not only critical for your success but it also can be helpful.

One of the first things I did when I started to develop flower beds - more like shelves with rock borders, I made sure the rain coming from uphill property would keep the flower shelves hydrated. That meant making small trenches to guide the water and lowering the flowering shelves so they could naturally collect water.

Now more than 40 years on this hillside, rain has become critical to my success:

1. Dig holes after a rain. Soil will be more pliable and easy to work. I mark off possible locations before rain, then check the possible areas after rain. If there are too many rocks, I move the location.

2. Remove dead trees. The rain will make dead tree removal easier, especially for trees with deep roots.

   3. Plant trees. You can more easily dig deep holes for root planting.

4. Plan to remove invasive species such as bush honesuckle. I can pull out young bush honeysuckle starts by hand after a good rain.

5. Follow the trenches rain makes and use those low spots for rain gardens.

6. Look for dry spots and adjust whatever is growing. You don’t want plants that need a lot of moisture growing in a dry area.

7. Check that birdbaths have been filled. If not, move the bird bath.

8. Note rain debris. Retrench the area to guide rain into areas with soil and flowers.

9. Ease plant stakes deeper into the ground. The rain-softened soil will have more give after a rain.

10. Walk through your garden and notice what’s starting to come up. Rain encourages new growth.

Rain certainly can help a garden with moisture but its also an excellent planting aid.

Charlotte

Repurpose Pruned Branches

Pruned pear branches forming a support for incoming peonies. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Repurpose Pruned Branches

February and March are pruning months where I live in mid-Missouri, USDA Hardiness Zone 6 but I keep Hardiness Zone 5 as my guide. The hardiness zones are a 13-year average of past temperatures. It’s best to plant for colder temperatures just in case.

Back to pruning. I prune towards the end of winter when trees are still dormant. My dwarf fruit trees get a light cut to keep them shaped; the one semi-dwarf pear tree requires a little more work because I didn’t prune it for about 30 years. Forgot I even had the tree until 2010, when paper wasps gave me my first homegrown supply of Bartlett pears.

Pruning my semi-dwarf pear tree next to my deck with this handy long pole. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Last year, the Bartlett pear tree developed very long vertical branches, which I knew I had to trim this winter.

The branches are long and easy to bend so thought I would try to use them to make peony bush supports.

Any peony supports are easy to install when the plants are just getting started.

new peonies starting to show amongst daffodils. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

I had enough pear tree pruned branches to make six of these supports. The ground was hard so I may go back and push the branches in farther after a good rain.

The top of the pruned pear branches support may need to be tied. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

The pruned pear tree branches may also need to be tied at the top. I will wait until after a good rain and I can slip the branches deeper into the ground. Then I can secure them at the top at the final even level.

Now to see if they are strong enough to support the peonies.

Charlotte

How to Test Soil

The wonderful world of soils and all of the microorganisms that live in it. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Soil Testing

As spring fever hits, this is the perfect time to get soil tested. Of all of the things we can do to make our gardens better, getting soil tested is by far the most important step to take.

A test will help assess the current state of soil and make recommendations of how to improve it for what you want to plant.

I did my first soil test through the University of Missouri Extension a couple of decades ago and repeat it every 2-3 years. Working a Missouri limestone hillside into a garden, it’s helpful to monitor how the soil amendments I have added change the soil composition.

Soil is assessed on a scale of 1-14. A middle seven is neutral. The chart extremes are sweet, higher than 7+ and bitter, lower than 7.

To successfully grow most plants, you want a good solid seven. On either end, blueberries and hydrangeas prefer a little more acid growing conditions; butterfly bushes and lilacs prefer sweeter soil.

How to Collect Soil

Using a freezer bag, collect 1 1/2 cups of soil from 6-8 spots around the garden from about 6 inches deep - if you can dig that deep.

Seal it up and take it to your local University of Missouri Extension office with $15. You will need to tell them what kind of plants you want to raise to get the most out of your soil test results.

Within a couple of weeks, the soil test report will be emailed to you with the results and recommendations, as appropriate.

The following are a couple of soil test examples, starting with a home garden.

Example Home Garden Soil Test

This home garden soil test shows recommendations at bottom. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

The soil test results are a little different for a field soil test.

Example Field Soil Test

A field test soil example covers more elements. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

My One Acre Limestone Hillside Soil Test April 2019

Over the years, friends have asked how I grow what I grow on a limestone hillside garden, where my first neighbors said “nothing would grow.” For 35 years i have concentrated on adding organic matter to existing soil and being kind to the soil I do have.

My limestone hillside garden soil test from April 2019. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

How to Improve Soil

At first blush, my Missouri limestone hillside garden should be acidic because I let the oak leaves fall on garden beds and only rake those that get in my way. Leaves, by the way, are excellent mulch and provide winter cover for a number of beneficial insects.

To improve my soil - well, actually to create soil - I added wood chips from our local recycling center along with compost. In addition, shredded leaves with grass clippings were also incorporated. These were added after the wood chips and shredded leaves had sat for a few months.

And to naturally enrich the soil, I have wildlife branch piles that have encouraged rabbits, which add to enriching the soil. And they’re big. I snuck out into my apiary at 4 a.m. to close up a hive a couple of weeks ago and was astounded at the wildlife moving around, including one very large rabbit.

Maybe it was because I was standing down hill and the rabbit was uphill but that was one big “bun bun.”

Regardless of your soil test results, the best way to improve soil is to compost. Compost helps to feed the microorganisms in soil that keep plants healthy. You can start by composting kitchen scraps and gradually move to composters and composting bins. It really is the best thing you can do for your soil and plants!

Charlotte

March Gardening Jobs

Time to level bird baths and garden decor that fell over during winter. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins phot

March Gardening Jobs

One of my former neighbors used to refer to my garden as “Daffodilland.” I do have a nice contingent of rescued and gifted daffodils starting their blooming period about a month earlier this year than in the past. One of my favorite March chores is to cut daffodils still in bud to share with friends.

The weather can also be a little challenging in USDA Hardiness zone 5 so March can be a hit and miss month in terms of getting a lot done.

1. The forecast for March 2023 is a wet spring.

2. Time to get birdhouses repaired and hanging in my garden. Attracting birds is a great way to manage unwanted bugs without using insecticides and pesticides.

The birdhouses also serve as homes for paper wasps, a wonderful pollinator we often find on porches and other unwanted areas. By giving them an alternative home, they can still pollinate gardens without getting in the way.

3.     On the first warm day, I remove all dead rose branches so the new growth will have room. I also add coffee grounds, banana peels, Epsom salts and crushed egg shells mixed into the soil around the base of the plants. Gently, you don’t want to tear up the roots. Also a good time to mulch.

4.     Plant onion sets around roses to keep bugs at bay. Three for miniature roses, 5-6 for the larger roses.

5. Prune fruit trees. Nothing elaborate, I make sure the branches don’t cross and are open in the center. Also mulch. Make a tire around the base leaving the space up at the tree trunk open.

6.     My hellebores and ‘Autumn Joy’ Sedum get the old greenery cut off so any new growth gets to shine. The Sedum starts look like tiny green roses close to the ground.

time to remodel your birdhouses to keep your natural pest control happy. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

7.     Mulch. My over-wintering mulch pile is ready to spread over new areas that need cover for the season and areas that lost cover over winter. Good time to load up the wheelbarrow and keep a supply at hand.

8.     If you didn’t get your lettuce and spinach out in February, get them planted this month.

9.     March and St. Patrick’s Day is also the time to plant potatoes, radishes and carrots.

10.     The last frost day for this zone is Mother’s Day in May so it’s a little too early to get much else planted and much too early to move tropical plants outside, even if you are ready to toss them out on their aggravating dropping leaves by now. Give them a little rainwater and that will help tide them over for another month or so.

11.  Also check inside plants for bugs. Look under leaves and if you see white bugs, clean off with a damp cloth wet with water and dishwashing liquid. Spray soil with a few drops of dishwashing liquid in water in a spray bottle to get rid of eggs. Start watering with ¼ strength fertilizer since days are getting longer.

12. Take time to enjoy the sunshine and look for spring-blooming plants!

 Charlotte

Where to Plant Daffodils

daffodils work well on the back of a flower border. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Where to Plant Daffodils

As you enjoy spring daffodil blooms, this is also a good time to scope out where you want to add more this fall.

Daffodils grow from bulbs that collect sunshine through their leaves after they bloom. They are easy to grow and, in good growing conditions, will spread and return from year to year.

Front or Back

Small daffodils such as Tete A Tete (in photo) will easily incorporate themselves at the front of a flower bed.

Larger taller varieties such as King Alfred will do better towards the back of an area with other plants. The larger the bulb, the deeper they should be planted, usually 4-6 inches.

Once the daffodils stop blooming, their greenery should remain so they can collect sunlight for the next blooming season. Their stems will turn to yellow and can be composted but they don’t look the best. Having other plants around will help cover the dying greenery.

Sun or Shade

Daffodils do well in both sun or shade. Since my trees don’t leaf out until later I don’t worry about bulbs getting too much shade. They access a good amount of sun to replenish their bulbs for next year.

Pots or Ground

You can also plant daffodils in pots and later move them to your garden. I prefer to plant once so I tend to get them in the ground and call it good.

Surprise!

There are “rules” and then there are times to break the rules. I like to add whimsy to my garden so planting daffodils in unexpected places is an easy way to add fun.

Scope out an unexpected garden spot now and mark it so you can find it later this fall. Then shop for an interesting daffodil variety to add to that spot. You will thank me next spring!

Charlotte

Trimmed Hardy Mums

hardy mums wintering over in my garage needed a trim. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Trimmed Hardy Mums

My experiment to winter over hardy mums in my garage is going relatively well. I’ve only lost a couple of mums so far and new growth is appearing at the base of the plants.

vigorous new growth under the dead overhead branches. (charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

To give new growth better access to sun, I’m trimming off the dead branches from last year’s growth.

That should give the mums an easier way to collect sunlight and turn the new growth from light yellow to green.

glad I trimmed. This one is needed some sunlight to turn green. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Once it’s time to plant these outside, they will be exposed to a few hours of sun a day.

Then it will be time to settle them into their new outside homes, giving them a whole growing season to get established.

Hardy mums are excellent natural bug deterrents as well as long-lasting cut flowers.

Charlotte