Welcome Hummingbirds!

Welcome Hummingbirds!

One of the loveliest garden visitors is headed back from over wintering in South America. It's time to get ready to welcome them back. 

The key to attracting hummingbirds is to catch the eye of the first scout birds heading north. If they find food and shelter, they're more apt to tell the others that your garden is a good place to settle for the season. Here are some ideas on how to get ready for hummingbird season:

1. Track Their Migration. Monitor migration maps (such as Journey North or eBird. You can also report sightings if you want to help track the migration. Hummingbirds are scheduled to arrive in mid-Missouri early April, weather permitting.

2. Clean and Fill Feeders. Scrub feeders with hot water and vinegar to prevent mold. Do not use soap. Fill with fresh nectar: 4 parts water to 1 part sugar, no red dye. Store sugar water in refrigerator until used.

3. Hang Feeders Early. Set feeders out at least two weeks before expected arrival to attract scout hummingbirds. That's this weekend for us in mid-Missouri.

4. Plant Hummingbird-Friendly Flowers. Although there are many factors that contribute to successfully growing plants, these are some hummingbird favorites:

• Bee Balm (Monarda)

• Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)

• Coral Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens)

• Salvia (Salvia spp.)

• Columbine (Aquilegia)

• Penstemon (Penstemon spp.)

• Agastache (Hummingbird Mint)

Annuals

• Zinnias (Zinnia elegans)

• Petunias (Petunia spp.)

• Fuchsia (Fuchsia spp.)

• Nasturtium (Tropaeolum)

• Cuphea (Cigar Plant)

Shrubs & Vines

• Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans)

• Butterfly Bush (Buddleia)

• Red Buckeye (Aesculus pavia)

• Weigela (Weigela spp.)

5. Provide a Water Source. Set up a shallow water feature, misting fountain, or dripping hose for drinking and bathing. Make it safe by elevating it off the ground.

6. Create Shelter. Maintain trees, shrubs, and vines to provide perches and nesting spots.

7. Offer Natural Food Sources. Avoid pesticides to preserve small insects that hummingbirds eat for protein.

8. Prevent Territorial Fights. Space out multiple feeders to reduce aggression among males.

9. Prepare for Nesting. Provide soft nesting materials like plant down, moss, or natural cotton.

10. Keep Sugar Water Clear. As temperatures heat up, sugar water can ferment. Check and replace whenever sugar water is cloudy. During hot temperatures, replace every 2-3 days.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes, my free weekly newsletter.

Charlotte

When to Plant

getting my cat’s favorite catnip growing container ready for this season. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

When to Plant

If you’re like me, it’s hard to walk by those beckoning displays of seeds promising delicious produce and flowers. Frankly, I don’t. I actually look for those displays because I pick up some seeds every year that sell out early including catnip. Not only do my cats enjoy the greenery but my bees enjoy the nectar and pollen.

Buying the seeds is easy. When to plant them is where it gets tricky. Here’s a quick guide to help you determine what to plant when based on your last frost date. I’m in USDA Hardiness 6b so our last frost is May 10.

Cold-Season Crops (4–8 Weeks Before Last Frost)

These crops tolerate frost and even improve in flavor with cooler temperatures.

• 4–8 weeks before last frost: Spinach, onions (sets or seeds), leeks, garlic (if not planted in fall), and peas.

• 4–6 weeks before last frost: Kale, collards, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and radishes.

• 2–4 weeks before last frost: Lettuce, beets, carrots, Swiss chard, potatoes, and turnips.

Warm-Season Crops (After Last Frost)

Once the soil warms up and frost danger has passed, I transition to warm-season crops.

• At last frost date or 1–2 weeks after: Corn, beans, cucumbers, squash, and tomatoes (if protected).

• 2–4 weeks after last frost: Peppers, eggplant, melons, and okra.

• 4+ weeks after last frost (soil 70°F+ for best germination): Sweet potatoes and heat-loving crops like watermelon.

I also stagger plantings for succession harvesting, especially with leafy greens, root vegetables, and bush beans.

Seedtime Calendar

If you’re growing extensive crops, then Seedtime garden planner may be useful. This planning calendar helps plan what crops should be planted when in an easy to read and track system.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes, my free weekly newsletter.

Charlotte

March Gardening Chores

time to line up my birdhouses that need repairs. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

March Gardening Chores

Are you ready for spring? March is the beginning of spring and daffodil days in my garden; one of my former neighbors used to refer to my garden as “Daffodilland.” The weather can also be a little challenging in USDA Hardiness zone 6b so March can be a hit and miss month in terms of getting a lot done.

The forecast for March 2025 is an early spring so better get started on some of these gardening chores:

1. Time to get birdhouses repaired and hanging in my garden. Attracting birds is a great way to manage unwanted bugs without using insecticides and pesticides.

The birdhouses also serve as homes for paper wasps, a wonderful pollinator we often find on porches and other unwanted areas. By giving them an alternative home, they can still pollinate gardens without getting in the way.

2.     Prune and fertilize roses. On the first warm day, I remove all dead branches so the new growth will have room. I also add coffee grounds, banana peels, Epsom salts and crushed egg shells mixed into the soil around the base of the plants. Gently, you don’t want to tear up the roots. Also a good time to mulch.

3.     Plant onion sets around roses to keep bugs at bay. Three for miniature roses, 5-6 for the larger roses.

4. Prune fruit trees. Nothing elaborate, I make sure the branches don’t cross and are open in the center. Also mulch. Make a tire around the base leaving the space up at the tree trunk open.

5.     My hellebores and ‘Autumn Joy’ Sedum get the old greenery cut off so any new growth gets to shine. The Sedum starts look like tiny green roses close to the ground.

6.     Mulch. My over-wintering mulch pile is ready to spread over new areas that need cover for the season and areas that lost cover over winter. Good time to load up the wheelbarrow and keep a supply at hand.

7.     If you didn’t get your lettuce and spinach out in February, get them planted this month.

8.     March and St. Patrick’s Day is also the time to plant potatoes, radishes and carrots.

9.     The last frost day for this zone is Mother’s Day in May so it’s a little too early to get much else planted and much too early to move tropical plants outside, even if you are ready to toss them out on their aggravating dropping leaves by now. Give them a little rainwater and that will help tide them over for another month or so.

10.  Also check inside plants for bugs. Look under leaves and if you see white bugs, clean off with a damp cloth wet with water and dishwashing liquid. Spray soil with a few drops of dishwashing liquid in water in a spray bottle to get rid of eggs. Start watering with ¼ strength fertilizer since days are getting longer.

11. Time to get lettuce seeds and onion starts in pots. They don’t mind the cold spring weather.

12. Take time to enjoy the sunshine and start to identify the beginning shoots of spring-blooming plants.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes, my free weekly newsletter.

Charlotte

Seed Sorting; Time to Organize

time to get my seeds organized in one spot so i can get a head start on 2025. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Seed Sorting

Are you tempted by seeds on sale at big box stores? Me, too. I still have seeds leftover from last year as well as seeds I’ve collected during the growing season. This is a good time to get those existing seed packets organized before splurging on new ones.

Gather All Seed Packets.

One would think this would be easy but at my house it’s more like a treasure hunt, I have seeds and packets all over the place. Collect all seed packets from the previous growing season. Include any leftover seeds from last year as well as new seeds purchased for the upcoming season.

• Tip: Store them in a cool, dry place until you're ready to sort them.

2. Check Seed Viability and Expiration Dates.

Check the back of seed packets for expiration dates. Seeds have a shelf life. Older seeds may have reduced germination rates.

• Tip: Use a seed viability test (such as the damp paper towel test) to check germination rates for older seeds.

3. Categorize by Type (Vegetables, Herbs, Flowers, etc.)

Sort the seeds into broad categories: vegetables, herbs, flowers, perennials, and other. This will help keep things organized and make it easier to plan for next season.

• Tip: Create sub-categories if necessary (e.g., "leafy greens," "root crops," "cucurbits" for pumpkins, squash, etc.).

4. Sort by Planting Time (Cool-Season vs. Warm-Season)

Organize seeds by their planting season. Cool-season crops (like peas, lettuce, and spinach) can be started early in the spring, while warm-season crops (like tomatoes, peppers, and beans) are best started after the last frost.

This will make it easier to plan out your garden's crop rotation and planting schedule.

5. Evaluate Seed Quantity and Condition

Examine the amount of each seed variety you have. If you have too much of a certain variety, you may want to donate or trade seeds. If you don’t have enough of a certain variety, plan to buy more.

• Tip: Check the seeds for any signs of damage or pest infestations, such as holes or powdery substances.

6. Create a Seed Inventory Spreadsheet

Set up a digital or physical catalog of your seeds. This can include columns for the seed variety, quantity, planting instructions, and notes on seed viability or special care.

• Tip: Include a "priority" column for the varieties you want to grow first or in larger quantities.

7. Label Seed Packets Clearly

Ensure that all seed packets are clearly labeled with the variety name, planting depth, germination time, and any other relevant growing information.

• Tip: For easy reference, you can color-code seed packets or use a consistent labeling system for types of plants (e.g., green for vegetables, blue for herbs).

8. Check for Seed Exchanges or Trade Opportunities

Consider looking into seed exchanges or gardening groups where you can trade or share excess seeds. This can be an opportunity to diversify your collection.

• Tip: Always make sure any seeds you trade or receive are well-labeled and in good condition.

9. Prepare for Germination Testing

For seeds that you are unsure about in terms of viability, plan to conduct germination tests. This can be done by placing a few seeds on a damp paper towel and observing the sprouting rate.

• Tip: Conduct germination tests a few months before planting to avoid wasting space on seeds with low germination rates.

10. Plan Your Garden Layout and Crop Rotation

Use your seed inventory to plan the layout of your garden for the upcoming season. Incorporate crop rotation principles, considering where you planted certain crops last year and what can follow in each bed.

• Tip: Make notes about companion planting and potential pests to help guide planting decisions.

Bonus: Organize Seed Storage

Store seeds in an ideal environment—cool, dry, and dark. Use airtight containers, envelopes, or clear plastic bins to organize them by category.

• Tip: Consider investing in a dedicated seed storage system, like a filing cabinet or clear drawer organizers, for easy access and organization.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to my free weekly newsletter Garden Notes.

Charlotte

February Gardening Chores

ice covers the south side of my hillside property making it dangerous to visit. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

February Gardening Chores

The ground where I live in USDA Hardiness zone 6b is frozen so I won’t be planting any trees just yet.

The following are my typical February gardening chores in USDA Hardiness Zone 6:

• Locate downed tree trunks and use them to border flower beds. As the tree trunks decompose, they will improve soil. I tend to wait until the tree trunks dry out, much lighter and easier to move.

• Pressure is on so if you haven’t made a dent in your reading pile, get a start, spring is only 47 days away.

•  If you haven’t ordered your favorite gardening catalogs, get them ordered. Look for catalogs with detailed plant descriptions and good photographs so you can use them for reference.  Missouri Wildflowers Catalog has lovely pictures, even old catalogs are still good references. www.mowildflowers.net. For heirloom seeds, try Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds at www.rareseeds.com, both are Missouri nurseries.

• Update garden diary entries. If you’ve missed a few entries, add them now. Underline items you wanted to get done this year. I make a list, then decide which projects I want to tackle. I also carry over the ones I didn’t get to last year, or drop them off the master list. This is a good time to plan, and to dream.

• Focus on adding native plants. Once established, they will be low care and tend to require less water than other plants. They also have an established relationship with hey native pollinators. They are connected. Check out George O. White State Forest Nursery, they may still have some seedlings left. Order even if they say sold out, you may still get the seedlings if the previous person didn’t pay for their order.

• On warm days, remember to water mums planted this past year. New mums need a gallon a month to keep their roots moist their first year. Once established, mums will become perennials and deter bugs from around where they are planted.

• Pile mulch and leaves on garden beds if they’ve been blown off by winter winds.

• Check inside plants for any hitchhiking bugs and remove. Make sure they are getting their sunlight needs met. If not, move them. Water with diluted fertilizer. Prune as necessary.

• Drop your garden pruners and other garden tools off to get sharpened, this is a slow time of year and this will give you a head start on the season.

• When feeding birds, add a little sand in the bird feeder mix. Birds need sand to help them digest seeds. Also ensure they have an available water source. Feed suet on cold days.

• If you have fish in an outside pond, make sure it has a hole in the ice so fish will get oxygen.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes, my free weekly newsletter.

Charlotte

Ten Reasons to Garden

My garden in winter, not very inspiring to get gardening. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Ten Reasons to Garden

It’s middle of winter and a good time to start planning my 2025 garden. Here are ten reasons why we all should garden:

1. Improves Physical Fitness

Gardening involves activities like digging, planting, weeding, and watering, which provide a full-body workout. It's a low-impact exercise that helps improve strength, flexibility, and endurance.

2. Boosts Mental Well-being

Tending to plants has been shown to reduce stress, anxiety, and depression. Being in nature and engaging with soil can have calming effects.

3. Enhances Creativity

Designing a garden layout, selecting plants, and creating vibrant arrangements stimulate creativity. It’s a rewarding outlet for artistic expression.

4. Promotes Better Nutrition

Growing your own fruits, vegetables, and herbs ensures access to fresh, organic produce, inspiring healthier eating habits and fostering a deeper connection to food.

5. Encourages Mindfulness

Gardening encourages you to live in the moment, focusing on the sights, sounds, and smells of nature. It’s a perfect way to practice mindfulness and meditation.

6. Improves Air Quality

Indoor or outdoor plants help purify the air by absorbing toxins and releasing oxygen, making your environment healthier to live in.

7. Strengthens the Immune System

Exposure to soil bacteria while gardening has been linked to improved immune system function. Plus, spending time outdoors boosts vitamin D levels.

8. Builds Patience and Resilience

Gardening teaches you to embrace the process and be patient as plants grow and thrive. Overcoming challenges like pests or weather strengthens your problem-solving skills and resilience.

9. Fosters Community and Connection

Joining gardening groups or sharing your harvest with neighbors can build social connections and a sense of belonging, which are essential for mental health.

10. Creates a Sense of Accomplishment

Watching your plants grow and flourish brings a profound sense of achievement and pride, boosting self-esteem and happiness.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes, my free weekly newsletter.

Charlotte

January Gardening Chores

Keep newly-planted mums, right, mulched and watered through winter. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

January Gardening Chores

Snow and ice covers my mid-Missouri garden but that doesn’t mean I don’t have chores to do. I garden in USDA Hardiness zone 6B, AHS heat zone 8.

Hardiness Zone: According to US Department of Agriculture, the Hardiness Zones are based on the average annual minimum winter temperature divided into 10-degree F zones, which give a range of temperatures for a certain plant or tree. The hardiness zones for the Midwest fluctuate more than other zones but average Zones 4, 5 and 6. 

These zones are averaged over 13 years and adjusted accordingly. There may be major adjustments in a couple of years due to our rapidly changing climate. Predictions for the Midwest have included longer springs and falls, shorter winters and summers; and higher summer temperatures. These changes are occurring very fast, challenging nature to adjust.

Those temperature swings mean we can still have winters that need hardier plants to survive.

Heat Zone: American Horticulture Society has started to divide the US into heat zones. Plants that can survive in temperatures over 90F for more than 90 days are plants in Heat Zone 8.

January Gardening Chores

The following are some of my January gardening chores:

1.  Does dreaming count as a job? It does if you’re a gardener and beekeeper in January. It’s downtime to review last year’s diaries and plan for this year.

2. Identify what plants you want to add this year and note what soil and sun requirements they will need. Focus on adding native plants. Once established, native plants will be low care and excel in local soil and weather conditions. Natives also have a relationship with local insects, pollinators and birds.

3. Plan on expanding flowerbeds to start removing grass from your property. Expanding flowerbeds will give you areas to plant vegetables as well as flowers and provide more food for pollinators. One way to start expanding flowerbeds is to place cardboard along the existing flowerbed edge and then move the flower bed border early spring. Mulch on the cardboard will keep the garden looking nice and help restore healthy soil conditions.

4. Before the winter storm I mulched roses, potted seedlings and my nursery stash to protect them from changing temperatures. If you don’t have a winter storm, this is a good time to mulch plants to maintain the soil temperature. If you have a winter storm, the snow will provide plants some protection.

5. Mums wintering over in the garage were covered in shredded leaves. I check them regularly to make sure their roots are wet. If you planted some in the garden last fall, check them regularly for moisture. Most mums need a gallon of water a month during winter season.

 6. Order catalogs you have used in the past and share catalogs you don’t need or use. One of my favorites is the Missouri Wildflowers Nursery Native Plants catalog, it has lovely pictures with a quick guide on what growing conditions native plants require and they offer great plant starts.

7. Order locally-adapted seed catalogs. Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds is a favorite seed catalog from Mansfield, Missouri.

8. Read. Whether it is gardening books, gardening catalogs and beekeeping magazines, catch up on what you couldn’t get to last year.

9. Remove ice-covered and broken limbs in pathways to keep walkways clear and safe.

10. Check inside plants for any hitchhiking bugs and remove. Remember to look under leaves. Make sure inside plants are getting their sunlight needs met. If not, move them. Water with diluted fertilizer. Prune as necessary, I use metal sewing thread snips. The thread snips make it easy to trim plants and keep them bushy.

11. Drop your garden pruners and other garden tools to get sharpened. Home and garden centers with service departments can usually sharpen tools.

12.  Start scouting where you can install rain barrels and totes to collect rain water off your gutter system. Observe what happens to rain and photograph so you can refer to the rain pattern later.

13. Enjoy the lower winter activity; gardeners and beekeepers need time to rejuvenate, too.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes, my free weekly newsletter.

Charlotte

Snow and Ice in Garden

snow covers an inch of ice in my southern apiary. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Snow and Ice in Garden

It’s easy to complain about winter snow and ice. However, there also are benefits to having this precipitation, starting with a reduction in areas with on-going drought. The following are pros and cons of ice in the garden and some suggestions on how to manage it.

Pros of Snow and Ice in the Garden

1. Insulation for Plants

   • Snow acts as a blanket: It traps air and insulates the soil, protecting plant roots and bulbs from extreme cold temperatures. This reduces the risk of frost damage.

   • Prevents soil heaving: By maintaining a steady ground temperature, snow prevents the freeze-thaw cycles that can push plants out of the soil.

2. Moisture Reservoir

   • Slow water release: When snow melts, it provides a steady supply of water that can penetrate deeply into the soil, replenishing moisture reserves in spring.

3. Protection for Perennials and Seeds

   • Shield against wind chill: Snow can prevent desiccation by protecting plants from drying winter winds.

   • Encourages dormancy: Consistent cold temperatures under the snow help plants maintain dormancy, reducing the risk of premature growth during winter thaws.

4. Pest and Disease Control

   • Kills off pests: Harsh freezes can reduce populations of overwintering pests, pathogens, and weed seeds in the garden.

Cons of Snow and Ice in the Garden

1. Weight Damage

   • Broken branches: Heavy snow and ice accumulation can snap branches, especially on evergreens or young trees.

   • Flattening plants: Snow can damage delicate plants that aren't strong enough to support its weight.

2. Ice Hazards

   • Ice suffocation: Ice layers can block airflow, potentially suffocating plants underneath.

   • Root rot risk: Prolonged ice in poorly drained soils can lead to waterlogging and root rot once the thaw begins.

3. Salt and Chemical Damage

   • De-icing runoff: Salt and chemical de-icers used on paths and driveways can leach into the garden, harming soil structure and plant health.

4. Soil Compaction

   • Frozen soil compaction: Walking on snowy or icy ground compacts the soil, reducing air and water permeability.

5. Delayed Growth

   • Cold soils in spring: Prolonged snow cover can delay soil warming, slowing down the spring planting season.

Tips to Manage Snow and Ice in Your Garden

• Shake off snow gently from branches to prevent breakage.

• Avoid using salt-based de-icers near garden beds; use cracked corn or sand instead.

• Mulch plants before snow arrives to provide an extra layer of insulation.

• Redirect runoff from melting snow to avoid flooding or salt contamination.

• Prune trees and shrubs in the fall to remove weak branches that might break under snow.

Conclusion

With thoughtful management, the benefits of snow and ice often outweigh the negatives. And with snow you get a great excuse to stay warm and dry at home!

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes, my free weekly newsletter.

Charlotte

Winter Storm Benefits

january 2025 kicked of with two winter storms, a combination of ice and snow. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Winter Storm Benefits

It’s not easy to think of winter storms as having benefits. When it comes to our gardens, though, there are many positive things that happen courtesy of winter storms.

1.Soil Moisture

Snowfall acts as a natural reservoir, slowly releasing moisture into the soil as it melts. This prevents sudden runoff and allows plants and trees to absorb water more efficiently, replenishing groundwater reserves.

2. Insulation for Plants

A thick layer of snow acts as an insulating blanket, protecting plants and roots from extreme cold temperatures. This layer prevents soil from freezing too deeply, safeguarding dormant plants and microorganisms.

3. Natural Pest Control

Cold temperatures during winter storms can reduce populations of pests, such as insects and larvae, that might otherwise damage plants in the warmer months.

4. Replenishment of Ponds

Melting snow and ice contribute to rivers, lakes, and reservoirs, providing essential water resources for ecosystems, agriculture, and human consumption during the dry seasons.

5. Improved Soil Structure

The freezing and thawing cycles associated with ice and snow help break up compacted soil, improving its structure and making it easier to work in the spring. This enhances soil aeration and drainage.

6. Nutrient Deposition

Snow can capture atmospheric nitrogen and other nutrients, depositing them into the soil as it melts. This acts as a natural fertilizer, boosting soil fertility for the growing season.

7. Wildlife Benefits

Snow provides shelter for certain wildlife, such as small mammals, by creating subnivean zones (spaces under the snow) that offer warmth and protection from predators. It also provides water when it melts, benefiting both plants and animals.

8. Disease Suppression

Many plant pathogens struggle to survive prolonged freezing temperatures, which can help reduce the spread of diseases in crops and gardens during the growing season.

9. Scenic Beauty and Psychological Benefits

The serene beauty of a snowy landscape can have positive psychological effects, offering a sense of calm and renewal. This aesthetic appeal often encourages outdoor activities, promoting physical health and well-being.

10. Recharge of Ecosystems

Winter storms reset ecosystems by pruning weak vegetation through ice accumulation and heavy snow. This natural process helps forests and landscapes maintain balance and encourages new growth in the spring.

Conclusion

By understanding these benefits, gardeners and nature enthusiasts can better appreciate the role of winter storms in maintaining healthy ecosystems and preparing for a fruitful growing season.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes, my free weekly newsletter.

Charlotte

Spring Bulbs Planted Late

tulips, left, hyacinths (center) and crocus still need to get planted. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Spring Bulbs Late Into Your Garden

 Do you have a few bags of spring bulbs you haven’t planted yet? Me, too. I thought I was going to get these in the ground earlier this fall but something else kept getting priority or the weather didn’t cooperate. So I thought planting them in winter was going to get warmer....?? 

Here’s the good news. There’s still time to get spring bulbs in the ground if your ground is not frozen and you get it done by early January. In USDA Hardiness zone 6b where I live, winter now may last 3-4 months so the earlier I can get them in the ground the better.

Exposing bulbs to cold temperatures stimulates a bio-chemical response that “turns on” flower formation and initiates root growth.

What happens if you wait longer? The bulbs may grow but the flowers will bloom towards the base of the bulb instead of fully extending above leaves. I had a few of those last year. Yes, I planted some bulbs in January last year. Apparently I need to learn this lesson again.

Feed Your Bulbs

If you’ve ever dug daffodil bulbs up in the fall – I tend to get a few relocated by mistake because I don’t remember where I planted them – the bulbs will have roots starting. Feed those roots.

Garden augers are now popular garden tools for easy hole digging. On my limestone hill, I use pick axes, it’s the only way to safely find a planting spot. You can also use a bulb digger that easily removes the soil from a hole. Shovels, by the way, also work quite well. Use whatever works best for your garden conditions. 

If you haven’t spread your compost out in the garden, this would be a good time to empty the composter and sprinkle the compost in your bulb holes. Also pick up a bag of bone meal at your local home and garden center before planting. Bone meal is excellent bulb food and will give bulbs extra food once their frozen state triggers growth.

How Long Cold Do Bulbs Need
 
Now here’s a cheat sheet on how much cold popular spring bulbs need in case you put this off any longer:

Crocus: 12-15 weeks 35 to 45 F or lower
Daffodils: 12-16 weeks at 40-45F or lower
Grape hyacinths: 10 weeks 40F or lower
Hyacinths: 10 week 40F or lower
Tulips: 6-14 weeks at 35-45F or lower

Potted Bulb Gardens

If time just gets away from you, plant the bulbs in pots. Water. Cover and store them in a refrigerator to give them the cold spell they need. You can make fun pot gardens with tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocus. The bulbs will bloom at different times giving a tiny spring display in a pot. When they are done, plant them back in the garden to collect new energy from the sun in their bulbs.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes, my free weekly newsletter.

Charlotte

Poinsettia Care Tips

poinsettias are a favorite holiday plant. mine in the past keep their color until way past easter. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Poinsettia Care Tips

The most surprising fact TikTokers have picked up from my poinsettia posts is that these are tropical plants. I remember them from our days living in Mexico City; in their native habitat, they can grow into small understory trees. 
Poinsettas were first discovered in the 1800s in Mexico City and plant starts were shipped to South Carolina. In Mexico, the shrub is considered the Christmas Eve flower.
These colorful tropical woody shrubs are beautiful and quickly turn any room corner into a bright holiday spot. They also can have a life long after Christmas with some care.

How to Care for Poinsettias

1.When shopping for a poinsettia, look in the center for tightly-closed yellow buds. Those are the actual flowers. Poinsettias without yellow centers are older and won’t last as long.

2.One of the biggest mistakes I see people making, especially in temperatures below 70F, is taking poinsettias out from a warm environment into cold. If you are purchasing poinsettias, ask them to be wrapped. Better yet, have brown bags, a lightweight blanket or cotton shirt you can place around the plant(s) as you move them to a warm car you drive close to the retailer entrance.

3. If they have decorative foil over the pot, remove the tin foil and add a saucer underneath. You can also place the plants in baskets with a saucer. You don’t want to keep the tin foil; tin foil can cause poinsettias to die from too much water.

4. Don’t overwater. Check the soil and water when the top one inch is dry.

5. Poinsettias emit a white sap when cut or broken. For some time, it was assumed the sap was poisonous to pets but it isn’t. Well, depends on how much the pet consumes. My cats don’t bother my poinsettias but I would keep the two separate if they did.

6. Place in the Right Spot.

Place your poinsettia in a spot with bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, and too little light will cause it to drop leaves prematurely. Don’t place it on top of a TV or anything that generates heat. A spot near a window with sheer curtains is ideal.

Poinsettias prefer temperatures between 65°F and 75°F (18°C–24°C). Avoid placing them near drafts, heat vents, or fireplaces, as fluctuating temperatures can lead to leaf drop and poor growth.

During the growing season (spring through summer), fertilize with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 4-6 weeks. Avoid fertilizing during the bloom period (fall and winter) to prevent encouraging too much leafy growth at the expense of the colorful bracts.

Keep the humidity around your poinsettia moderate. If your home is dry, especially in winter with indoor heating, place the plant on a humidity tray (a shallow tray filled with water and pebbles) or use a room humidifier. Just be sure the plant isn’t sitting in standing water.

7. Deadheading and Pruning

After the colorful bracts or leaves fade, you can prune back the stems to about 4 inches to encourage new growth. Trim off any yellowing or dead leaves. If you plan to keep the poinsettia beyond the holiday season, regular pruning will help maintain its shape.

If you want your poinsettia to bloom again the following year, light control is crucial. Poinsettias require 12-14 hours of complete darkness each night to trigger blooming. Starting around late September or early October, place the plant in total darkness (such as a closet or box) each night for about 8 weeks. During the day, ensure it gets plenty of bright, indirect light. After this period, the bracts should begin to show color.

8. Avoid Overcrowding

Crowding or placing poinsettias near other plants can lead to fungal or pest issues.

Keep your poinsettia a few inches away from other plants to allow for air circulation. This will help reduce the risk of pests like aphids and mealybugs, and it’ll keep the leaves dry to prevent mildew or mold.

9. Post-Holiday Care or Disposal)

After the holidays, you can either continue caring for the poinsettia and try to get it to re-color its leaves bloom or dispose of it. If you decide to keep it, prune back the plant and continue providing light, water, and moderate temperatures. One friend plants hers out in the summer in shade. I've kept mine in pots in shade on my deck; they will grow back bushy after pruning.

If you don’t want to keep it, consider composting it rather than just tossing it in the trash.

10. Poinsettias are not just Christmas plants. Poinsettias are available in many colors from red, pink and white and may continue to bloom into Valentine’s Day and Easter. Enjoy these lovely plants through other holidays.

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Charlotte

Homemade Seed Tape

Paper towels make a good base for saving seeds to plant later. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photoo)

Homemade Seed Tape

Do you remember seed tape?

It was popular a couple of decades ago and sold as an easy way to garden. The package someone gave me for Christmas back then included 1x8 foot tissue paper with seeds glued between two layers. I planted the roll but nothing grew from it that year.

But the concept stayed in the back of my mind.

Then one year when I was traveling I saved some seeds in a paper towel and a new idea was born. I can make my own version of seed tape and ensure it’s from a stock I like.

Two years ago, I started to save my favorite tomato seeds from the plants I was growing. My experiment was with cherry tomatoes, which I grow every year in pots.

Favorite tomato seeds can be pricey to make sure you know the source. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Now it’s easy to say why bother until you start to see the prices for tomato seeds.

So how do you save the seeds?

Open the fruit you want to collect seeds from and spread them across a paper towel. Label. Allow to dry. Other fruit you can try include strawberries, green peppers and - what else would you like to try?

Don’t forget to label the seeds as they dry, then cut out the corner and store in an envelope. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Once dry, save in paper envelopes. You can recycle envelopes by cutting them in half and taping the cut end. Remember to label the outside of envelope. Store in a dry place until it’s time to plant.

You can also do this with other seeds.

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Charlotte

How to Hang Birdhouses

Tufted titmouse checking out one of my birdhouses february 2024. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

How to Hang Birdhouses

Sixty percent of bird species depend on bugs to feed their young, making birds an important element in gardens to balance the ecosystems. 

If you are just starting your living bird collection, take a walk around your garden and look for spots that offer protection from predators and prevailing winds, and access to food and water. I have bird baths around my property as well as small rainwater ponds to encourage birds to settle in.

If you're buying birdhouses, most come with directions on what birds may move in and where to best hang the birdhouses.

Here's a quick guide on where to place birdhouses for Eastern Bluebirds, Wrens, Titmice and Cardinals.

1. Eastern Bluebirds:

   • Preferred Entrance Hole Size: 1.5 inches

   • Habitat Preference: Open woodlands, orchards, fields, and along the edges of forests.

   • Nesting Box Placement: Mount bluebird houses on posts or poles about 4 to 6 feet above the ground, facing towards an open area. Bluebirds prefer a little bit of distance between their nesting spot and dense vegetation.

2. Wrens:

   • Preferred Entrance Hole Size: 1 inch

   • Habitat Preference: Woodlands, suburban areas, and gardens with dense shrubbery.

   • Nesting Box Placement: Hang wren houses in a sheltered area, such as under eaves or tree branches, about 6 to 10 feet above the ground. Wrens often prefer locations that offer some protection from the elements.

   • They are also known to build several nests they don't use. Observe your wren houses to determine which ones are actually occupied. These birds are fun to hear and watch.

3. Titmice:

   • Preferred Entrance Hole Size: 1.25 inches

   • Habitat Preference: Woodlands, forests, parks, and suburban areas with mature trees.

   • Nesting Box Placement: Mount titmouse houses on trees or posts about 6 to 15 feet above the ground. Place them in a somewhat secluded area with moderate vegetation cover.

4. Cardinals:

   • Habitat Preference: Brushy areas, woodlands, gardens, and suburban areas with thick shrubbery.

   • Nesting Box Placement: Cardinals prefer to build nests in protected shrubs. Every year I find nests in my old-fashioned lilac bushes. I entice them by providing sunflower seeds through early spring. 

One final note. I've had frogs in wren houses and bumblebees in bluebird houses so birdhouses can be homes to more than just birds.

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Charlotte

Getting Soil Tested

Getting soil samples is as easy as scooping up soil from around your garden. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Time to Test Soil

As spring fever hits, this is the perfect time to get your soil tested. Of all of the things we can do to make our gardens better, knowing what kind of soil we have, and what will grow best in it, is by far the most important step we can take. And it tends to cure black thumbs!

A sil test will help assess the current state of your soil and make recommendations of how to improve it for what you want to plant.

I did my first soil test through the University of Missouri Extension a couple of decades ago and repeat it every 2-3 years. Working a Missouri limestone hillside into a garden, it’s helpful to monitor how the soil amendments I have added change the soil composition.

Soil is assessed on a scale of 1-14. A middle seven is neutral. The chart extremes are sweet, higher than 7+ , and bitter, lower than 7. That’s what the Ph designation tells you. To successfully grow most plants, you want a good solid seven. On either end, blueberries and hydrangeas prefer a little more acid growing conditions; butterfly bushes and lilacs prefer sweeter soil.

How to Collect Soil for Sampling

Using a freezer bag, collect 1 1/2 cups of soil from 6-8 spots around the garden from about 6 inches deep - if you can dig that deep.

Seal it up and take it to your local University of Missouri Extension office with $15. You will need to tell them what kind of plants you want to raise to get the most out of your soil test results.

Within a couple of weeks, the soil test report will be emailed to you with the results and recommendations, as appropriate.

The following are a couple of soil test examples, starting with a home garden.

Example Home Garden Soil Test

This home garden soil test shows recommendations at bottom. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

The soil test results are a little different for a field soil test.

Example Field Soil Test

A field test soil example covers more elements. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

My One Acre Limestone Hillside Soil Test April 2019

Over the years, friends have asked how I grow what I grow on a limestone hillside garden, where my first neighbors said “nothing would grow.” For 35 years i have concentrated on adding organic matter to existing soil and being kind to the soil I do have.

My limestone hillside garden soil test from April 2019. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

How to Improve Soil

At first blush, my Missouri limestone hillside garden should be acidic because I let the oak leaves fall on garden beds and only rake those that get in my way. Leaves, by the way, are excellent mulch and provide winter cover for a number of beneficial insects.

To improve my soil - well, actually to create soil - I added wood chips from our local recycling center along with compost. In addition, shredded leaves with grass clippings were also incorporated. These were added after the wood chips and shredded leaves sit for a few months as a mulch cover.

And to naturally enrich soil, I have wildlife branch piles that have encouraged rabbits, which add to enriching the soil. And they’re big. I snuck out into my apiary at 4 a.m. to close up a hive a couple of years ago and was astounded at the wildlife moving around, including one very large (and quite surprised as I was) rabbit. Maybe it was because I was standing down hill and the rabbit was uphill but that was one big “bun bun.”

Regardless of your soil test results, the best way to improve soil is to compost. Compost helps to feed the microorganisms in soil that keep plants healthy. You can start by composting kitchen scraps and gradually move to composters and composting bins. It really is the best thing you can do for your soil and plants and not hard to do once you establish the habit.

Did you know soil is not replaceable? Let’s take good cre of the soil we have!

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Charlotte

Making Toilet Paper Roll Pots

Toilet paper rolls cut in half make excellent seed starting pots. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Toilet Paper Roll Pots

If you haven’t already, this is a good time to start saving your toilet paper and paper towel rolls to make compostable seed pots.

The rolls are not only hardy enough to help seedlings grow but they can be buried in the ground, seedlings and pot, when they are ready to go outside.

To make these seed pots, cut the toilet paper roll in half. Then gently fold the half and make a 1/4 inch cut on each folded side. Refold and make similar cuts on the edge of the other fold.

Tuck the folds as you would a box.

Fill with new potting soil.

Before planting, I spray soil with water so the seedlings can easily settle in.

Cardboard egg cartons are a good place to start your seeds. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

For small seeds, I start them in cardboard egg cartons. When they are big enough, I can easily move them into the toilet paper roll pots.

The cardboard egg carton lid serves as a nice place to store the toilet paper rolls ready for the seedling transfer.

You can also start seeds in your toilet paper roll pots and keep them warm and moist. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

If you don’t have access to extra cardboard egg cartons, you can use a clear covered plastic container to start seeds in the toilet paper roll pots.

The trick is to keep the seeds warm and moist until they sprout.

Make small holes in the bottom of the clear top container so that the seeds don’t get too wet.

All of these kitchen items can be repurposed into seed starting options. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photos)

There are several kitchen items you can repurpose for gardening. My biggest challenge is finding somewhere to put them as I save them before using!

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Charlotte

Birds Natural Pest Control

time to rehab bird houses and install them wrapping thick wire around trees. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Birds Natural Pest Control

My 42-year old garden has welcomed birds literally for decades. Their garden presence has provided natural pest controls since 60% of all bird species depend on insects for food. Birds play a crucial role in natural pest control by contributing to a balanced ecosystem. Here are ten ways in which birds act as effective pest controllers in gardens:

1. Insect Predation: Many birds, such as sparrows, warblers, and chickadees, feed on insects like caterpillars, beetles, and aphids. They help keep insect populations in check, preventing them from damaging plants.

2. Seed-Eating Birds: Birds like finches and sparrows consume seeds, reducing the number of volunteer plants in your garden. This helps in maintaining a healthier and more organized garden environment.

3. Slug and Snail Control: Thrushes, robins, and ducks are known to consume slugs and snails. These pests can be detrimental to plants.

4. Caterpillar Control: Insectivorous birds, especially during the breeding season, actively seek out caterpillars to feed their nestlings. This helps prevent caterpillar damage to plants and supports bird populations simultaneously.

5. Mosquito and Fly Predation: Birds like swallows and purple martins are skilled aerial hunters, preying on mosquitoes, flies, and other flying insects.

6. Spider Consumption: Insectivorous birds also feed on spiders, which can be beneficial for managing spider populations in and around your garden.

7. Ant Control: Birds such as nuthatches and woodpeckers feed on ants and their larvae. This can help control ant populations, preventing them from damaging plants and disrupting garden ecosystems.

8. Fruit Pest Management: Birds like orioles and mockingbirds feed on fruit pests, including fruit flies and beetles. By doing so, they protect fruit crops from infestations.

9. Ground-Foraging Birds: Birds that forage on the ground, such as towhees and sparrows, help control pests like ground-dwelling insects and weed seeds, contributing to a healthier garden floor.

10. Nesting Site Selection: Some birds, like bluebirds and wrens, choose nesting sites strategically near gardens. As they forage for food to feed their young, they assist in pest control within the garden environment.

By encouraging a diverse bird population and providing suitable habitats, you can enhance the natural pest control services that birds offer to your garden.

Installing bird houses, bird feeders and bird baths establish a bird-friendly environment that support these helpful garden allies.

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Charlotte

Top 13 Gardening Tools

some of my favorite gardening tools are not found in garden centers. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Top 13 Gardening Tools

Several friends are starting to garden this year and have asked for a list of the top gardening tools they need. Here is my list with some substitutes:

1. Hand Trowel: A hand trowel is a small, handheld tool with a pointed, scoop-shaped metal blade. It's ideal for digging small holes, transplanting seedlings, and breaking up soil.

2. Garden Knife or Hori Hori: Sometimes called a soil knife, this multipurpose tool originally from Japan is a combination of a knife and a trowel. It's excellent for digging, cutting roots, weeding, and many other tasks. The only downside is the blade can be sharp so be careful not to get cut.

3. Pruning Shears: Also known as hand pruners, these are essential for cutting small branches, trimming plants, and deadheading flowers. Look for a sharp, high-quality pair for clean cuts.

4. Pruning Saw: For larger branches that pruning shears can't handle, a pruning saw is essential. It's great for shaping shrubs and trees, and it ensures clean cuts for the plant's health.

5. Garden Gloves: Protect your hands from thorns, blisters, and dirt with a sturdy pair of garden gloves. Choose gloves that fit well and provide good dexterity. My favorite pair came from the children’s section. I bought several pairs in the same pattern so if one wears out, I have another one.

6. Galoshes: If you have a lot of rain, keep a pair of galoshes handy. Tennis shoes and gardening slides will only take you so far.

7. Sun Hat: Besides using sunscreen, find a hat that comfortably fits on your head. It's easy to forget how long one has been out in the garden exposed to sun. 

8. Rake or Pick Ax: A garden rake is useful for leveling soil, spreading mulch, and gathering leaves. It comes in handy for cleaning up your garden beds and maintaining a tidy appearance. Except for scooping up leaves, I use pick axes to level soil and spread mulch.

9. Watering Can and Hose: A watering can is great for targeted watering, especially for containers or smaller areas. A hose with an adjustable nozzle is versatile for various larger watering needs.

10. Wheelbarrow or Garden Cart: Moving soil, compost, mulch, or plants becomes much easier with a wheelbarrow or garden cart. It helps reduce the strain on your back and allows you to transport materials efficiently. I have a garden cart since a wheelbarrow tends to take off on its own own my hillside.

11. Garden Fork: A garden fork is designed for breaking up and aerating soil. It's especially useful in clay or compacted soil, allowing for better water and nutrient penetration.

12. Soil Tester: Knowing your soil's pH is crucial for understanding its acidity or alkalinity. This information helps you choose plants that will thrive in your garden. I haven’t found a home soil tester that’s reliable so I take samples to our local Extension office every other year.

13. Catalogs: If you are new to gardening, get a few catalogs to start identifying what you want to plant and whether you have the right conditions. Many suppliers offer free catalogs you can order online and you could buy the world’s largest seed catalog for sheer fun.

Also take time to learn how to maintain your tools, such as cleaning and sharpening. Good care will extend the life of your tools.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

World's Largest Seed Catalog

My birthday gift to myself this year was paying $14.95 for a seed catalog. This isn’t just any seed catalog, it’s the world’s largest seed catalog. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

World’s Largest Seed Catalog

One of the ways gardeners prepare for a new season is by getting catalogs. Even in years when I didn’t have much time for my garden, my cold winters were brighter curled up with a pile of garden catalogs.

This year, I treated myself to the world’s largest seed catalog, more than 500 pages of beautiful plant photos sprinkled with recipes.

one of the hallmarks of this catalog is their lovely photography. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

The catalog is from Baker Seed Company, a Missouri business focused on offering heirloom seeds from around the world. Based in Mansfield, Missouri, the company sponsors a yearly festival in May, which is usually the last hard frost of the season for our area.

From their website:

“Founder Jere Gettle started Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co. in 1998 as a hobby, and though it has since grown into North America's largest heirloom seed company, we've never lost our passion for growing and sharing heirloom varieties. Baker Creek offers one of the largest selections of 19th century heirloom seeds from Europe and Asia, and our catalogs now feature about 1,000 stunning heirloom varieties.”

some of the nectar-producing plant seeds baker creek offers. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

To no one’s surprise, I check for plants that provide bees and pollinators food.

If you have someone in your circle interested in getting started gardening this year, Baker Creek also offers a smaller, 163-page free catalog. It’s a great addition to a basket with gardening gloves, pruners and a couple of seed packets to cultivate the gardening interest.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Zooming Right Along

one of the most important pieces of equipment is a furry seat warmer. Somehow they know just when they are needed. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Zooming Right Along

I’ve been getting requests following my online lectures and podcast appearances about how to best set up for doing online meetings and lectures. As a former radio and TV producer, the simplicity and quality of today’s technology is amazing. Whether you are lecturing or having a family chat or reunion online, some key elements remain the same:

Both podcasting and online meetings/lecturing have to have excellent sound. There is no compromising here. Planning needs to go into getting a quality microphone and eliminating background sounds during the recordings and presentations. I have to silence my bonging clocks and entice my cats into the bedroom so they don’t inadvertently participate. Although Shirley Honey could have a fan club for the number of times she’s photo bombed a lecture wanting a treat.

Recently I also had to reschedule a siding company so they weren’t hammering on the house during a podcast. Think ahead to clear your path for a quiet time without competition.

Define your niche. If you are lecturing, develop a quick definition of what you’re going to talk about. Test it for clarity. Check keywords to find what will resonate best with your audience. It may be short but it may take you the longest to define.

I, for example, am at the crossroads between beekeeping and gardening. My lectures, and next book, are about why we need to plant for pollinators. My message started with a TEDx and will continue through my beekeeping reference books. Kim Flotum said I am revolutionizing the way beekeeping is taught. I prefer to think of it as my message is a healthy dose of common sense.

Podcasting/Radio Interviews

• If you are the podcaster, plan your episodes in advance and consider scripting, especially if you're new to podcasting. This helps you stay organized and ensures a smoother delivery.

• If you are a podcast guest, the host will usually provide a series of questions he/she plans to ask. They usually ask you for suggestions as well.

  Think through your answers. Tape yourself delivering them and edit as you listen back. Make it interactive. Don’t go on and on lecturing.

Quality Audio

• Invest in a good microphone to ensure high-quality audio. USB microphones like the Blue Yeti. One of my recent podcast hosts recommended Audio-Technica ATR2100x (no paid affiliation)

Recording and Editing Software

• Use reliable recording software such as Audacity (free) or Adobe Audition. These tools also allow you to edit your recordings for a polished final product.

Hosting Platform

• If you are hosting, choose a podcast hosting platform like Libsyn, Podbean, or Anchor to publish and distribute your episodes.

Branding

1. Create eye-catching cover art and establish a consistent brand for your podcast. This helps in attracting and retaining listeners.

   Online Discussions/Lectures/Presentations

   Being comfortable working online was one of the outcomes of our imposed COVID quarantine in 2020. However, it still takes some advance planning to do it well, and particularly well enough if you’re getting paid.

   Be Familiar with Your Platform

   Whatever platform you are using, understand the features, such as screen sharing, breakout rooms, chats, and Q&A sessions. Practice with a friend, The days of listeners hanging on for long periods as you try to find the chat button are gone. You should at least know the basics. This will enhance your ability to engage with your audience.

   Quality Webcam and Lighting

   1. Invest in a decent webcam for clear video. Most computer cameras are low quality and grainy, especially projected on a big screen.

      2. Good lighting is also crucial for visibility, so position yourself facing a natural light source. I would also invest in a small light ring.

Quality Microphone

• While many webcams have built-in microphones, consider using an external microphone for better audio quality.

Test Your Equipment

• Always test your equipment (camera, microphone, internet connection) before the lecture to make sure everything is working well. Also check your weather forecast, sometimes weather can interrupt a good signal.

What to Wear

Remember when you are online you don’t what to wear a color that screams nor one that makes you fade. Try out several options and select 2-3 colors that compliment your seating background.

Record Your Lectures

6. Record your lectures for future reference. You can review for possible . improvements. Someone who missed the lecture will also tend to ask if there is an available recording.

For more gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor tips, subscribe to Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Winter Sowing

Forecasters are calling for more snow and below 0 Fahrenheit temperatures so good time to get those native seeds winter sown. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Winter Sowing

Winter sowing is a way to start seeds outdoors during winter months, allowing them to naturally germinate when conditions are right in the spring. It’s also an excellent way to give seeds that need cold exposure that cold treatment they need to germinate, such as purple coneflowers and black-eyed susans, both excellent pollinator plants.

Here's a guide on how to winter sow in repurposed milk jugs using Black-Eyed Susan seeds:

What you will need

1. Empty, clean plastic milk jugs or bottles

2. Utility knife or scissors

3. Potting soil

4. Black-eyed susan seeds (or purple coneflower seeds)

5. Spray bottle with water

6. Tape (as in duck tape)

7. Marker

   How to get milk jugs ready

   As you collect milk jugs, wash them thoroughly, allow to dry and store. I kept mine in plastic garbage bags so they didn’t take up a lot of storage room.

   Pierce or cut several drainage holes in the bottom of the bottle first. Use a nail, heated skewer, or the tip of your scissors or knife. Be careful not to puncture your hand.

   Then use a utility knife or scissors to cut the bottles horizontally around the middle, leaving the handle intact on one side. It’s hard to punch holes in the bottom once the milk jug is cut in half. The bottom half will serve as a mini greenhouse.

   Add a layer of potting soil into the bottom section of the bottle, filling it about one-third of the way.

remove lids if you haven’t already, you won’t need them. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Plant black-eyed Susan seeds

I confess, I saved a lot of seeds earlier in the season so I was ready to plant. If you don’t have seeds, check your local home and garden center, most have a supply all year.

Break up black-eyed susan seed heads and sprinkle over the soil surface. I’m always surprised at how many seeds come out of one little flower head. You can lightly press them into the soil but don’t bury them too deeply. These seeds require light to germinate.

Dust the seeds with soil.

Close the top part of the bottle over the bottom, securing it with tape. This creates a miniature greenhouse effect. Remove milk jugs lids; you won’t need them.

Label the container with the plant name and the date of sowing using a marker. I just add an initial so that I know which seeds I planted.

Place milk jugs outdoors

Find a suitable outdoor location that receives partial sun to full sun. An area protected from harsh winds is ideal.

Set the prepared milk jugs on the ground. You can also bury them halfway in the soil to stabilize them.

Check the containers occasionally to ensure the soil remains slightly moist but not waterlogged. If the soil appears dry, spray water over it just to keep it moist.

As the temperatures increase in the spring, the seeds will naturally germinate when conditions are favorable.

Transplanting Seedlings

Once the seedlings have grown a few inches tall and have developed several sets of leaves, they can be carefully transplanted into larger pots or directly into the garden bed. I wait until after the last frost to transplant directly into the garden.

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Charlotte