Winter Forecasting

one of my rescues is an excellent weather forecaster; if all fred sleeps in I know it’s cold. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Winter Forecasting: Nature Forecasters

Shortly after moving to Missouri, one of my neighbors tried to explain the rules behind winter weather predictions. Regardless of what professional forecasters say, local residents put more faith in traditional forecasting through nature, such as woolly worm forecasting and reading persimmon seeds.

Wooly Worms: As I recall, all black wooly worms mean a rough winter ahead; honey brown bands mean mild periods where the bands are on the worm. If the woolly worm has spiky protrusions, watch for ice. If it’s well, “woollier” than normal, better bundle up.

Persimmon Seeds: A spoon shape inside indicates above average snowfall, a knife shape signals colder than normal temperatures and a fork shape means warmer than average temperatures.

Ant Mounds: Higher and larger ant and termite mounds mean a colder than normal winter. If they’re rushing back and forth in straight lines, rain is coming. When they go in search of food in random patterns, the weather will be good.

About this time of year I think about this winter forecasting sign and say to myself I would like to meet the person who sat around watching ants and then comparing their behavior to winter patterns. Then again, maybe not.

Bee Nests: Bee nests built higher than usual means cold weather ahead. They also cluster around, and in, the hive when stormy weather is approaching.

It’s true honeybees cluster – they don’t hibernate – inside a hive when stormy weather is approaching. As a beekeeper, it’s one of the ways I know bad weather is moving in. Bees also move up the hive through winter, eating the honey above them. My bees mid-September were already in their second of their three hive boxes so I moved them down to the first floor. That makes sure they have enough food for winter.

Is that a good predictor of weather? Probably not, it’s what bees do when daylight gets shorter.

Crickets Chirping: If you need to know the temperature, count the number of chirps in a 14-second time span of cricket chirping. Add 40 to that number and you’ll be within one degree. In fact, many insects tend to be more active when it’s warmer, including the sounds they make.

Flies: If flies land and bite, rain is imminent.

Katydids: When Katydids begin their chirping chorus, you can expect the first hard frost in 90 days.

Spiders: Seeing more spiders than usual? That supposedly means abnormally cold temperatures ahead.

If spider webs are flying in the wind, there will be no rain. If a spider puts up a web, the upcoming weather will be fine. If the spider removes it, a storm is on its way.

Cats: My cats should work for weather forecasters because they do a good job of weather forecasting, too. Somehow they know when its cold because they refuse to get out of bed.

How do you like to predict the upcoming winter?

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Asian v. Native Ladybugs

asian ladybugs moving into my basement mid fall 2024. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Asian v. Native Ladybugs

It finally happened to me. Asian ladybugs found an entrance to my basement and moved in during cold winter fall nights. They look very similar to native ladybugs but are an introduced species. Here’s a comparison of Asian ladybugs (Harmonia axyridis) versus native ladybugs, highlighting their pros and cons:

Asian Ladybugs (Harmonia axyridis)

Pros:

1. Effective Pest Control: Highly efficient at preying on aphids, scales, and other pests, contributing significantly to agricultural pest management.

2. Rapid Reproduction: They can reproduce quickly and in larger numbers, which helps in controlling pest populations more effectively.

3. Adaptability: They thrive in various environments, allowing them to spread and establish in many regions.

Cons:

1. Invasive Nature: They can outcompete native ladybugs for resources, leading to declines in native populations and disrupting local ecosystems.

2. Nuisance Behavior: In the fall, they often seek shelter in homes, leading to unwanted infestations.

3. Potential Allergens: They can release chemicals that cause allergic reactions in some people.

Native Ladybugs (Various Species)

Pros:

1. Ecosystem Balance: Native ladybugs are well adapted to their environments and help maintain the balance of local ecosystems.

2. Biodiversity Support: They support the diversity of local fauna, contributing to healthy ecosystems.

3. Less Likely to Become Pests: Native species are less likely to invade homes in large numbers compared to Asian ladybugs.

Cons:

1. Limited Range: Some native ladybug species may have narrower diets or habitat preferences, making them less effective at pest control in some areas.

2. Population Declines: Many native species are experiencing population declines due to habitat loss, pesticide use, and competition from invasive species like Asian ladybugs.

3. Slower Reproduction: Native ladybugs may not reproduce as rapidly as Asian ladybugs, which can limit their effectiveness in controlling pest outbreaks.

While Asian ladybugs are excellent at pest control, they are invasive and can be a nuisance. In contrast, native ladybugs face challenges from habitat loss and competition but play crucial roles in their ecosystems.

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Mulching v. Composting

dry leaves can be both used in composting and in mulching. (charlotte ekker wiggins photos)

Composting v. Mulching: Pros and Cons

Late fall gardeners start to talk about composting, a term often confused with mulching. Both are excellent methods for managing organic materials in your garden, but they serve different purposes and have distinct advantages and disadvantages:

Composting Pros:

1. Nutrient-Rich Soil Amendment: Composting produces nutrient-rich soil known as humus, which improves soil structure, fertility, and moisture retention.

2. Reduces Waste: It helps divert organic waste from landfills, reducing methane emissions and contributing to environmental sustainability.

3. Versatile Use: Finished compost can be used as a soil amendment, potting mix, or mulch, providing nutrients for plants.

4. Improves Soil Health: Compost introduces beneficial microorganisms to the soil, promoting healthy plant growth and suppressing diseases.

5. Reduces Soil Erosion: Helps prevent erosion by improving soil structure and water retention.

Composting Cons:

1. Time-Consuming: Composting can take several months to a year to produce usable compost, depending on the method and materials used.

2. Requires Space: It may require space for compost bins or piles, which might not be feasible for individuals with limited outdoor space.

3. Requires Effort: Turning or maintaining the compost pile regularly requires effort and physical labor.

4. Odor Concerns: Improperly managed compost piles might emit odors, especially if not aerated correctly or if inappropriate materials are included.

Mulching Pros:

1. Conserves Moisture: Mulch helps retain soil moisture, reducing the need for frequent watering and conserving water.

2. Weed Suppression: It suppresses weed growth by blocking sunlight and inhibiting weed germination.

3. Regulates Soil Temperature: Mulch acts as an insulator, regulating soil temperature by keeping it cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

4. Soil Erosion Prevention: Helps prevent soil erosion by shielding the soil surface from heavy rain or wind.

5. Improves Soil Fertility: Over time, organic mulches decompose, adding nutrients to the soil.

Mulching Cons:

1. Temporary Solution: Mulch breaks down over time and needs periodic replenishment, requiring ongoing effort and cost.

2. May Attract Pests: Some organic mulches can attract pests like rodents or insects.

3. Improper Application: Incorrectly applied mulch (too thick or against plant stems) can lead to moisture-related issues or rot in plants.

4. Limitations on Types: Certain plants might not thrive with certain mulch types due to acidity, composition, or other factors.

While composting enriches soil, reduces waste, and promotes soil health, it requires time, space, and effort. Mulching, on the other hand, conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and regulates soil temperature, but needs periodic renewal and proper application to avoid potential drawbacks.

When used appropriately, both practices can complement each other and offer valuable benefits. And they'll use up all of the dead leaves delivered by nature to your garden door!

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Sprouting Redbud Seeds

native eastern redbud trees produce seeds in pods that dry through summer. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Sprouting Redbud Seeds

It's almost time for cold weather and planting. Yes, I said planting. Many native tree and flower species need exposure to cold weather first to get them to germinate. Several readers have asked about how to get Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) tree seeds to germinate and that is one of a number of favorite plant species that need that exposure to cold to get spring sprouts.

If you look at Eastern redbud seeds close up, they have a hard, impermeable seed coat that contains the dormant seed embryos. Other plants aslo have hard similar seeds such as nasturtiums, morning glories, hyacinth benas. To give these seeds an extra hand, I soak those hard seeds in a bowl of water for a day or so to soften the outer seed coat. you can also gently rub the seeds with sandpaper, assuming you can hold on to those tiny ones. The idea is to mimic outside elements wearing down the seed coats.

There are two ways you can then expose seeds to cold.

Cold Stratification

1. Moisture and Cold Treatment:

   • After scarification, place the seeds in a moist medium like sand, peat moss, or a damp paper towel. The medium should be moist but not soggy.

   • Place the seeds and medium in a sealed plastic bag or container and store it in the refrigerator at 33°F to 41°F (1°C to 5°C) for 30 to 90 days. This cold period replicates winter and helps break dormancy.

2. Temperature Fluctuation (Optional): In nature, seeds also experience slight fluctuations in temperature. If you want to closely mimic this, you can occasionally remove the seeds from the refrigerator for a day and then return them.

3. Planting: After the cold stratification period, the seeds are ready for planting. Sow them about 1/4 inch deep in well-draining soil, and keep the soil consistently moist. Warmer spring temperatures (around 68°F to 75°F) will encourage germination.

Natural Stratification

Frankly I prefer to let nature do the work. I sow the seeds directly outdoors in the fall. If I want to ensure that the seeds have made it, I will sow the seeds in soil-filled milk jugs I seal up and leave in a protected garden corner. That has worked well for starting purple coneflowers, black eyed susans and New England asters.

As far as Eastern redbuds are concerned, my garden does quite well getting seedlings started on its own. When I want to share some seedlings in the spring, all I have to do is walk around and dig up the sprouts that show up after winter. Doesn't get much easier!

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Favorite Trees Fall Leaf Color

missouri’s state tree flowering dogwood turns reddish peach in fall. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Favorite Trees Fall Leaf Color

We've been in a late summer drought where I live in mid-Missouri so leaf drop is in part because trees are parched. It's also because we are heading into fall and as temperatures drop, plants are settling into a slower season.

Trees change color in the fall due to a combination of factors, including shorter days, cooler temperatures, and less sunlight. As the days get shorter, trees begin to produce less chlorophyll, the green pigment that allows them to absorb sunlight and photosynthesize. As chlorophyll levels decrease, the other pigments in the leaves, such as carotenoids and anthocyanins, become more visible.

Carotenoids are yellow, orange, and brown pigments that are present in leaves throughout the growing season. However, they are masked by the green chlorophyll.

In fall, as chlorophyll breaks down, the carotenoids become more visible, giving leaves their yellow and orange hues.

Anthocyanins are red, purple, and blue pigments that are produced in leaves in response to cool temperatures, bright light, and stress. As the weather cools in fall and the days get shorter, trees produce more anthocyanins. This gives leaves their striking red, purple, and crimson colors.

If you live in an area without seasons, you're missing this color change in the landscape which can be very dramatic. I love watching the changes in the seasons.

Here are 9 examples of favorite trees and the colors their leaves turn:

• Sugar maple: Red, orange, and yellow

• Red maple: Red, orange, and purple

• Oak: Red, orange, brown, and yellow

• Hickory: Yellow, orange, and brown

• Ash: Yellow, orange, and purple

• Birch: Yellow, orange, and red

• Sweetgum: Red, orange, and yellow

• Dogwood: Red, purple, and yellow

• Sassafras: Yellow, orange, and red

Fall foliage is a beautiful reminder of the changing seasons. It is also a sign that trees are preparing for winter so hopefully you are, too.

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Why We Sneeze

Why We Sneeze

one of the 22 native goldenrod species that bloom june-october in Missouri. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Are you blaming those late summer blooming yellow flowers for your allergies? Are you sure you're blaming the right yellow flowers?

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) and ragweed (Ambrosia spp.) are often confused due to their similar late summer to fall blooming times. Although both have small yellow flowers, they are quite different in appearance, growing conditions, and allergy impacts.

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.):

• Appearance: Goldenrod has tall, upright stems with showy, bright yellow flowers arranged in dense clusters along the tops of the stems. The leaves are long, narrow, and alternately arranged. 

• Growing Conditions: Goldenrod thrives in sunny, open areas like meadows, prairies, and roadsides.

• It’s a hardy plant and tolerates various soil conditions, preferring well-drained, slightly dry soils.

• Pollination: Goldenrod is pollinated by insects, including bees and butterflies, making it a beneficial plant for pollinators.

• Its pollen is heavy and sticky, not easily airborne.

• Allergies: Goldenrod pollen is not distributed by wind so its not the cause of allergies.

• It is, however, often blamed for allergies and often removed from landscapes.

ragweed produces high pollen levels later summer and fall. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Ragweed (Ambrosia spp.):

• Appearance: Ragweed is more inconspicuous, with green, spiky flowers and finely divided, fern-like leaves. I

• t’s not as showy as goldenrod and appears weedy.

• Growing Conditions: Ragweed is often found in disturbed soils, along roadsides, fields, and waste areas.

• It thrives in sunny locations and is considered a highly invasive weed in many areas.

• Pollination: Ragweed is wind-pollinated, meaning its pollen is light and easily carried through the air.

• Allergies: Ragweed is the major culprit of fall allergies.

• Its pollen is highly allergenic and responsible for hay fever and other respiratory issues.

So stop pulling Goldenrod, those pretty yellow native flowers that feed bees and pollinators. It's ragweed that is aggravating your allergies, not Goldenrod!

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Saving Marigold Seeds

An old paint pan makes a nice marigold seed-drying pan. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Saving Marigold Seeds

I have to confess, I fell out of interest in marigolds several years ago when the original bug-deterring plants seem to be less and less successful at keeping bugs at bay. Some bugs, such aas ladybugs, are good to have around. Other bugs, however, damage plants and need to be discouraged.

The reason marigolds are no longer effective is simple enough. Plant breeders have bred the insect-repelling pheromone out of some of the newer varieties, in part because some people don’t like the unique marigold scent. I myself love the pungent scent, which is what used to make them good plants to have around vegetable gardens.

This year, a friend gave me a couple of her dried marigold plants. I was startled to note the strong scent and asked her where she had picked up the seeds. From my grandmother, she said.

As it was snowing outside, I found myself picking off the flower heads to dry. There were two marigold colors, one yellow and one all orange. Once the plants were cleaned of most of their seeds, I spread the seeds in an old paint pan to dry.

After they are all dry, I will store them in bags ready for planting next spring.

Marigolds are annuals, so they only bloom one growing season. Well, unless some of the seeds end up tucked safely somewhere during winter, then you might find marigold plants popping up where you least expect them.

I still like their flowers so will save some seeds to scatter in my garden next spring after danger of frost. Will be interesting to see if these flowers are more aromatic and better deter bugs.

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Amaryllis Care

apple blossom amaryllis bulbs, some I’ve had for years, re-blooming. (charlotte ekkek wiggins photo)

Amaryllis Care

Amaryllis bulbs are popular for their large, colorful flowers and ease of care, especially during the winter months. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to plant and care for amaryllis bulbs:

Planting Amaryllis Bulbs:

1. Choose a Bulb: Select a healthy, firm bulb. Larger bulbs generally produce more flowers.

2. Select a Pot: Choose a pot that is 1-2 inches wider than the diameter of the bulb. Make sure it has drainage holes at the bottom.

3. Planting Depth: Fill the pot about one-third to one-half full with well-draining potting soil. Place the bulb in the center of the pot and add more soil, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed.

4. Watering: Water the bulb thoroughly after planting. Be careful not to overwater; excess water can lead to rotting. Let the top inch of the soil dry out before watering again.

Caring for Amaryllis Bulbs

1. Light: Place the pot in a bright, sunny location. Amaryllis plants need bright, indirect light to grow and bloom properly.

2. Temperature: Keep the plant in a room where the temperature is around 60-70°F (15-21°C). Cooler temperatures can prolong the bloom time.

3. Watering: Water the plant sparingly until you see the stem and leaves emerging. Then, water more regularly, keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.

4. Support: As the flower stalk grows, it might need support to prevent bending or falling over. You can use a stake or decorative support to keep it upright.

5. Fertilization: Once the flower buds appear, you can feed your amaryllis with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-4 weeks. Follow the package instructions for the proper dilution and application.

6. Deadheading: Remove spent flowers to encourage the plant to put more energy into developing new blooms.

7. After Blooming: After the flowers fade, cut the flower stalk about an inch above the bulb but leave the foliage. Continue to water and fertilize the plant as usual. Amaryllis can be encouraged to bloom again next year.

8. Dormancy: In late fall, stop watering and let the plant go dormant. Store the pot in a cool, dark place for 6-8 weeks. After this dormancy period, bring the plant back into the light, resume watering, and the cycle can begin again.

These bulbs are easy to grow and even easier to get to regrow. Some of mine are now 15 years old and big!

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Repurpose Leaf Bags

Fall leaf bags are excellent for storing dug up plants. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Repurpose Leaf Bags

There’s an excellent garden tool usually available in the fall but it’s not just for gathering leaves. Those large tall brown leaf bags make excellent temporary plant storage when you dig up plants.

Fall is an excellent time to move peonies and daylilies as long as they have about a month to settle in their roots before a hard frost. Well even if there is a hard frost, they need warm soil for their roots and that can stay warm until January.

Back to the brown paper bags.

Brown bags can be used to collect compost additions from the garden. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

These brown paper bags are sold for leaf collection and are often used to haul leaf and grass clippings to our local recycling center.

The brown bags not only are double and triple thick but they can also be used to kill off hard to reach grassy areas. Once down, cover with wood chips to hold them in place.

Brown bags can also store plant trimmings for easy moving to compost piles.

If you are putting something with weight on it, add a piece of cardboard at the bottom to minimize the bags ripping from the weight.

If you happen to use these for leaves, dump the leaves and bring them back home. You can keep using them for many garden uses.

Now I haven’t decided when to introduce one of these to my cats as a cat toy. They love the smaller brown paper bags that hold groceries. What do you think, are these too big?

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Winter Forecasting

bees end winter and early spring at the top of their hives after consuming their way through stored honey. not a very reliable way to forecast winter weather. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Winter Forecasting

Not knowing what kind of weather is ahead can be scary. Shortly after moving to Missouri, USA, one of my neighbors tried to explain the rules behind woolly worm forecasting, a popular Ozarks fall pastime. Apparently some people in Missouri don't want to go into winter without at least a hint of what's ahead.

As I recall, all black woolly worms means a rough winter ahead; honey brown bands mean mild periods where the bands are on the worm. If the woolly worm has spiky protrusions, watch for ice. If it’s, well, “woollier” than normal, better bundle up.

Although woolly worms may be the most well known, there are other interesting winter forecasters in nature:

• Higher and larger ant and termite mounds mean a colder than normal winter. If they’re rushing back and forth in straight lines, rain is coming. When they go in search of food in random patterns, the weather will be good.

When I hear and read about ants and termites forecasting, I sometimes think to myself I would like to meet the person who sat around watching ants and then comparing their behavior to winter patterns. Then again, maybe not.

• Bees nests built higher than usual means cold weather ahead. They also cluster around, and in, the hive when stormy weather is approaching.

It’s true honeybees cluster – they don’t hibernate – inside a hive when stormy weather is approaching. As a beekeeper, it’s one of the ways I know bad weather is moving in. Bees also move up the hive through winter, eating the honey above them. My bees mid-September were already in their second of their three hive boxes so I moved them down to the first floor. That makes sure they have enough food for winter.

Is that a good predictor of weather? Probably not; it’s what bees do when daylight gets shorter.

• If you need to know the temperature, count the number of chirps in a 14-second time span of cricket chirping. Add 40 to that number and you’ll be within one degree. In fact, many insects tend to be more active when it’s warmer, including the sounds they make.

• If flies land and bite, rain is imminent.

• When Katydids begin their chirping chorus, you can expect the first hard frost in 90 days.

• Seeing more spiders than usual? That supposedly means abnormally cold temperatures ahead.

• If spider webs are flying in the wind, there will be no rain. If a spider puts up a web, the upcoming weather will be fine. If the spider removes it, a storm is on its way.

• There is also an Ozark tradition of cutting open persimmon seeds and checking the seed. A spoon shape inside indicates above average snowfall, a knife shape signals colder than normal temperatures and a fork shape means warmer than average temperatures. People opening up persimmons this year and finding only spoons.persimmon.

I have a very easy way to predict weather at my house. If my cats don't get out of bed, there's a high probability it's cold outside!

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Bringing Plants Inside

IT’S A MESS TRANSITIONING PLANTS INSIDE AND GETTING READY FOR WINTER. (CHARLOTTE EKKER WIGGINS PHOTO)

Bringing Plants Inside

It's time to bring tropical plants inside and the process is, frankly, a bit of a mess. The whole cycle can take a couple of weeks, if not more, so I start the end of September.

Our first hard frost is from October 30-November 14. Starting at the end of September gives plants time to adjust to the change in their growing conditions before I turn the house heat on.

The hardest part is deciding what plants come inside and which ones spend a few more weeks outside before a hard frost ends their life. I am cutting back on the number of plants I have on the deck over summer but it’s never easy to leave even one plant behind.

• Once lined up in order of priority and size, I replace the top 1-2 inches of soil with new soil to remove any eggs that may hibernate.

• Next a spray of dishwashing liquid mixed with water removes any bugs on top of, and under, leaves. I also use a mixture of Neem oil and water in a spray bottle for those plants harboring bugs on leaves.

• Time for a trim. Some plants expand over summer so they need a trim to better fit the inside space.

• Hitchhiker check. Tree frogs, lizards and grasshoppers sometimes end up inside, to the delight of my cats. Best to leave them outside.

  It's work but so appreciated later when its cold and snowy outside and I'm having a warm cup of tea surrounded by greenery.

  Charlotte

Why Not Rake Leaves

weather conditions including drought can cause leaves to fall early late summer. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Why Not Rake Leaves

For years I've let my oak and hickory tree leaves fall on my hillside garden. Some years I've even hauled in bags of chopped leaves for additional mulch. Leaves are not only excellent winter cover but they are home to a number of beneficial garden residents who otherwise would not survive our Midwest cold winter weather.

Not convinced? I know, raking up fall leaves is a common practice but that doesn't make it right. Hopefully by now we understand those manicured lawns are insect and pollinator wastelands so we need to reconsider how we manage our gardens.  

There are other benefits of not raking up leaves:

1. Habitat for Wildlife: Fallen leaves provide a natural habitat for various insects, amphibians, and small mammals during winter months. Raking them up can disrupt these ecosystems and reduce biodiversity in your yard.

2. Soil Enrichment: When left to decompose, leaves can break down and enrich the soil with valuable organic matter. This improves soil structure, moisture retention, and nutrient content, benefiting your garden or lawn.

3. Time and Energy Savings: Raking leaves can be a time-consuming and physically demanding task, especially if you have a large yard with many trees. Allowing leaves to naturally decompose can save you both time and energy.

4. Cost Savings: You can save money on bags or disposal fees associated with collecting and disposing of leaves. Instead, you can use leaves as a free source of mulch or compost for your garden.

5. Environmental Impact: Burning leaves releases carbon dioxide and other pollutants into the atmosphere, contributing to air pollution and climate change. Composting or mulching leaves is a more environmentally friendly option.

6. Erosion Control: A layer of leaves can help protect the soil from erosion, particularly on slopes or hilly areas. They act as a natural barrier against heavy rain and wind.

7. Aesthetic Appeal: Some people find the natural look of leaves on the ground to be aesthetically pleasing. It can create a cozy and rustic atmosphere in your yard during the fall season.

8. Fertilization: As leaves decompose, they release nutrients back into the soil, acting as a natural fertilizer for your plants and trees.

However, there are situations where raking leaves may be necessary, such as when leaves are excessively thick and could smother growth; or when they pose a safety hazard, such as blocking drainage systems. If you have to collect leaves, use them for mulch, composting, or as a natural weed barrier in your garden beds.

Think it about this way. Trees are delivering leaves to you. Use them and help wintering garden residents at the same time!

For more tips on gardening, beekeeping, cooking and easy home decor, subscribe to my weekly Garden Notes.

Charlotte

Why Leaves Change Color

even native dogwoods are struggling through drought. (charlotte ekjer wiggins photo)

Why Leaves Change Color in Fall

I used to be the answer desk for when leaves change color in Missouri. A popular tourist draw, communities would plan fall and pumpkin festivals with apple cider drinks and craft shows.

Now retired from that job, I still enjoy the fall changing of leaf colors.

Trees change color in the fall due to a combination of factors, including shorter days, cooler temperatures, and less sunlight. As the days get shorter, trees begin to produce less chlorophyll, the green pigment that allows them to absorb sunlight and photosynthesize. As chlorophyll levels decrease, the other pigments in the leaves, such as carotenoids and anthocyanins, become more visible.

Carotenoids are yellow, orange, and brown pigments that are present in leaves throughout the growing season. However, they are masked by the green chlorophyll.

In fall, as chlorophyll breaks down, the carotenoids become more visible, giving leaves their yellow and orange hues.

Anthocyanins are red, purple, and blue pigments that are produced in leaves in response to cool temperatures, bright light, and stress. As the weather cools in fall and the days get shorter, trees produce more anthocyanins. This gives leaves their striking red, purple, and crimson colors.

another fall color in native flowering dogwoods, purple. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Here are 9 examples of tree leaves and their fall color:

• Sugar maple: Red, orange, and yellow

• Red maple: Red, orange, and purple

• Oak: Red, orange, brown, and yellow

• Hickory: Yellow, orange, and brown

• Ash: Yellow, orange, and purple

• Birch: Yellow, orange, and red

• Sweetgum: Red, orange, and yellow

• Dogwood: Red, purple, and yellow

• Sassafras: Yellow, orange, and red

The intensity and variety of fall colors vary from year to year, depending on weather conditions. Continued drought can cause leaves to fall earlier without noting a color change.

Fall foliage is a beautiful reminder of the changing seasons. It is also a sign that trees are preparing for winter. The leaves will eventually fall from trees, leaving the branches bare. This helps to conserve water and energy during winter months.

Charlotte

Mulberry Weeds

Mulberry weeds have sweet purple flowers as they grow in my driveway gravel. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Mulberry Weeds

I remember when these invasives were first introduced to my hillside garden. They were growing in a pot of perennials I bought on sale. I didn’t recognize the invasive at the time so I let it grow to see what it was. Who doesn’t like a two for one sale!

However. This is how many invasives make their way into our gardens. According to d***

Mulberry weeds, also known as Morus alba or white mulberry, are invasive plants that can quickly spread and crowd out native vegetation. These weeds are particularly an issue in many parts of North America. Here's a description of mulberry weeds and some ways to eliminate them:

1. Appearance: Mulberry weeds have simple, serrated leaves that are typically lobed and heart-shaped. The leaves are often glossy green on top and paler underneath.

2. Fruit: One of the most distinctive features of mulberry weeds is their fruit. They produce small, sweet, and dark-purple to black berries that are edible for both humans and wildlife. While the berries are tasty, the prolific seed production of these plants contributes to their invasive nature. They will distribute seeds when they are as little as three inches tall.

3. Habitat: Mulberry weeds can grow in a wide range of habitats, including open fields, disturbed areas, roadsides, and forest edges. They are highly adaptable and can tolerate different soil types and moisture conditions.

How to Eliminate Mulberry Weeds

1. Manual Removal: For small infestations, you can manually remove mulberry weeds by cutting them down to ground level or digging out the roots. Be sure to remove all plant material, including the roots, to prevent regrowth.

2. Mowing: Regular mowing can help control the growth of mulberry weeds in open areas. Mow them down before they produce fruit to prevent seed dispersal.

3. Mulch and Ground Cover: Planting ground cover plants or applying mulch in the affected area can help smother and suppress mulberry weeds. This can be especially effective in garden beds and landscaped areas.

4. Prevention: The best way to deal with mulberry weeds is to prevent their establishment in the first place. Avoid planting them in your landscape, and be vigilant about removing young mulberry plants before they become established.

It's important to note that controlling mulberry weeds may require ongoing efforts, as they can be persistent and continue to produce seeds that contribute to their spread. Additionally, it's crucial to adhere to local regulations and guidelines for weed control, as well as to consider the potential impact on native ecosystems when managing invasive species.

Charlotte

Planting Bulbs for Spring Flowers

tete-a-tete daffodils, lefft, are among the early blooming spring daffodils. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

Planting Bulbs for Spring Flowers

The bulb packages are starting to show up at local home and garden centers so time to check my notes from spring. Not that it's very helpful since I scatter spring-flowering bulbs through my garden but at least this year I tried to identify areas where I can add more.
Planting spring bulbs in the fall allows them to establish roots before cold weather sets in. Some bulbs such as tulips also need to be exposed to cold for 8-12 weeks or they won't bloom.
Here are some favorite spring bulbs to plant in fall, along with tips for successful planting:

1. Tulips: Tulips come in a wide range of colors and shapes, making them a popular choice for spring gardens. They are also edible and a favorite food source for deer. In USDA Hardiness zone 5, tulips are annuals, only growing one year.
When planting tulips, follow these tips:

• Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil.

• Plant tulip bulbs about 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up.

• Space the bulbs a few inches apart, considering the eventual size of the tulip plants.

• Water thoroughly after planting to help settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.

• After they bloom, try not to water the area or the moisture will cause dormant bulbs to rot.

2. Daffodils (Narcissus): Daffodils are known for their vibrant yellow and white blooms, often with a sweet fragrance. My neighbors call my hillside garden "daffodil land" because I have them growing all over my hillside.
Here's how to plant them:

• Select a sunny to partially shaded spot with good drainage.

• Plant daffodil bulbs about 6 inches deep, with the pointed end up.

• Space them apart according to the variety, usually a few inches.

• Daffodils are generally low-maintenance and deer-resistant.

3. Crocuses: Crocuses are some of the earliest bloomers, bringing pops of color to your garden in late winter to early spring. The bulbs are favorite mouse food so don't be surprised if you loose some before they bloom.
Here's how to plant crocus bulbs:

• Choose a spot with well-draining soil and partial to full sun.

• Plant crocus bulbs about 3 to 4 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up.

• Space them close together for a dense carpet of color.

• Crocuses naturalize well, which means they'll multiply over the years.

4. Grape Hyacinths: Grape Hyacinths are a favorite for bees and naturalize once established.
To plant grape hyacinth bulbs:

• Pick a sunny location with well-drained soil.

• Plant hyacinth bulbs about 6 inches deep, with the pointed end up.

• Space them a few inches apart, considering the eventual size of the plants.

• Water after planting to settle the soil and encourage root growth.

5. Alliums: Alliums, often referred to as ornamental onions, offer unique spherical blooms that add architectural interest to gardens.
Plant allium bulbs as follows:

• Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil.

• Plant allium bulbs about 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end up.

• Space them apart according to the specific variety.

• Alliums are known for their deer and rodent resistance.

Tips for Successful Planting:

• Prepare the soil by adding compost or well-rotted organic matter to improve drainage and fertility.

• Plant bulbs with the pointed ends facing upwards and follow recommended planting depths for each type.

• Water bulbs after planting to help settle the soil and initiate root growth.

• Mulch the planted area to help conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.

• Consider grouping bulbs together for a more impactful display of color.

• Protect newly planted bulbs from pests like squirrels by covering the planting area with wire mesh.

• Be mindful of the recommended hardiness zone for each bulb type to ensure they can survive your winter temperatures.

  Charlotte

December Gardening Jobs

time to finish mulching flower beds with shredded oak leaves. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

December Gardening Jobs

I will be planting the last of my new plant arrivals this month, hopefully a good 5 weeks before a hard frost. Last year, our soil never froze; the year before it was January. The rapid changes in our climate are showing up in my USDA Hardiness zone 5 garden.

I still have some spring garden bulbs to get in the ground. Sprinkled with bone meal in the hole before placing the bulb, these new garden additions will be fun to see in bloom in only a few months. Or so I remind myself; I miss my green garden wintertime.

Here are some other December gardening jobs:

Get broken branches and limbs trimmed before ice hits, or before someone runs into them visiting for the holidays. You know where they are but people new to your property are bound to run into them.

 As soon as a hard frost hits, it will be time to mulch. Mulching maintains the soil at an even temperature. During winter, the point of mulching is to keep plants in hibernation. If you still have shredded leaf piles, move those into flower beds, those will also make good mulch.

 To mulch trees, make a well around the tree trunk and leave an area the width of a tire between the tree trunk and the mulch. When mulching, don’t pile mulch up to the trunk or you will create an area for diseases. Leaving a little moat around the tree also reduces girdling.

 Have empty pots, garden carts, rakes leaning against the side of the house? It’s time to clean them off and store them for the season. The rakes, in particular, you don’t want to step on the tines and hit yourself on the side of the head.

Mulch-covered mums showing new growth; keep them watered over winter. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

If you are planting mums this fall, make sure to get them mulched and regularly watered over the cold months. Leave the dead growth, it will protect the young shoots growing in the plant center.

Empty composters into flower beds. Leave enough to get a new batch started.

Clean out and organize your garden implements so you know which ones need repairs including sharpening. Winter is a good time to get those done.

Did you save seeds this year? Get them in containers and labelled; store seeds in a cool dry space.

Keep an eye out for plant sales. Bulbs are usually half off this time of year and seasonal plants get marked down after the holidays.

Give gardening gifts for the gardeners on your gift list starting with these wonderful gardening gloves with honey.

Finally remember to rest and start planning for next year. If you haven’t already, make notes of what worked well this growing season and what you want to try next year. Before you know it, it will be spring!

Charlotte

November Gardening Jobs

wintering over mums inside my garage this year. (charlotte ekker wiggins photo)

November Gardening Jobs

This year I am going to winter hardy mums in my garage. I love these long-lasting cut flowers that are a natural bug deterrent. They do well on my shallow soil profile but are usually only available in the fall. I will be planting them this spring in the garden to give them a longer growing season. I garden in USDA Hardiness Zone 5.

As long as the ground is not frozen, fall is an excellent time to plant trees, bushes, perennials and bulbs.

Now that all of my tropical plants are settled inside, I am still moving potted plants around to give them optimum light conditions. With my house heat on, plants are adjusting to the warm conditions by dropping leaves.

Tree leaves have also been busy, from changing color to making their way onto flower beds. I like to use mowed over leaves for a layer of mulch that decomposes into soil over the next few years. I will be adding wood chips from our local recycling center after the first hard frost. The combination will create a plantable bed by next spring.

Missouri’s native tree flowering dogwood leaves turn purple in fall. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins Photo)

Plants continue to need moisture; an inch a week is a good measure, especially for woody plants, such as azaleas and evergreens. When watering, check for damaged branches and remove. Once winter ice moves in, the ice will cause more damage than necessary on those weak and damaged limbs. I take pruners with me so I can also trim out suckers and branches that are too long, especially along where I regularly walk. No point in putting that off until later when the ground is covered in ice and snow.

If you haven’t done so already, this is a good time to empty most of your composters. Most likely candidates to get the new rich soil amendment include asparagus and strawberry beds.  I also added compost to my deck pots to get them ready for my next crops. I still have red onions growing so I may scatter some lettuce and spinach seeds.

Still need to mound my rose crowns with 6 inches of soil or so before the first frost. I have mounds of mulch already piled nearby to scatter on the plants after I add a layer of leaf mulch for extra insulation.

My purple coneflowers bloomed well this year so I have trimmed a few seed heads to plant in my nursery bed next year. The rest I leave for winter bird food.

Have grass to mow? You should be on the downside of the mowing season. Make the last cut when you see grass has stopped growing. Let clippings lie where they’ve been cut to restore Nitrogen to the soil. Have fun mowing over the leaves to shred and move them to flower beds.

Don’t forget to stop and enjoy the fall colors. Trees, shrubs and some perennials take on a different color in fall, changing gardens into new, sometimes surprising color palettes. Take note of something you like and plant more next year.

If you’ve enjoyed daffodils and tulips earlier this year, this is the time to get bulbs planted. There is a variety of other spring bulbs to plant now including lilies and hyacinths. Check your local home and garden center for the varieties best for your area, and shop late season discounts.

Charlotte

Hardy Garden Mums

Pink daisy-like hardy garden Mums were planted last fall, survived winter and made it through our record hot summer. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Hardy Garden Mums

Have you ever wondered why some mums make it through winter but others do not?

Getting mums through their first winter in a garden can be challenging. There are a couple of reasons why including that there are two different types of mums.

The perennial, fall-flowering form is Chrysanthemum x morifolium and are the best to add to gardens. These are the ones that come back year after year once they get established. By comparison, the annual variety is Chrysanthemum x multicaule. These tend to be sold as gift plants in grocery stores and florists and don’t do well outside of a greenhouse.

If your plant has no identification, here’s how to easily tell them apart. Annual mums have thinner, strappy leaves that are not as toothed as the perennials, which are wide and deeply notched.

How to Plant Hardy Garden Mums

Make sure the root ball is nicely hydrated. I will place them in a bucket of water overnight to ensure they have all of the water they need. Sometimes they can get dry sitting in a pot at a garden center and only watered with a sprinkler.

Secondly hardy garden mums in USDA Hardiness zone 5 like at least 6 hours of sun a day.

Hardy garden mums make great plants for flower bed corners and mixed in with other perennials. You can keep them short by pinching them once a week mid-spring until July 4 weekend to keep them bushy.

I let mine grow tall so they are easier to cut for flower arrangements.

More hardy garden mums starting to bloom. (Charlotte Ekker Wiggins photo)

Why Plant Hardy Garden Mums

There are many reasons I plant mums. First they are a natural bug repellent. As a matter of fact many of the “safe” bug sprays are made from pyrethrin which is “eau de mum.”

Secondly, hardy garden mums are easy to grow once they are established. It’s better to buy them in spring if you can find them but most hardy garden mums are available for purchase in the fall. If you plant in fall, plan to give them a gallon of water a month through winter to help their roots get established. If you can mulch with leaves or wood chips that will help protect them as well.

Finally I love having mums because they are one of the longest-lasting cut flowers. As the growing season wanes, having blooming hardy garden mums provides a source of fresh flowers easily through the holidays.

I keep small fresh flower bouquets in several spots around my house. In the photo, besides mums there are pink vincas, red yarrow, dark pink geraniums, yellow mums and blue lavender.

Charlotte

December Gardening Chores

Shredded and small dried leaves make good winter mulch. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

December Gardening Chores

At least this year my overwintering nursery won’t get new additions; I will be planting the last of my new plant arrivals this month, hopefully a good 5 weeks before a hard frost. Last year, our soil never froze; the year before it was January. The rapid changes in our climate are showing up in my USDA Hardiness zone 5 garden.

I still have some spring garden bulbs to get in the ground. Sprinkled with bone meal in the hole before placing the bulb, these new garden additions will be fun to see in bloom in only a few months. Or so I remind myself; I miss my green garden wintertime.

Here are some other December gardening chores:

Get broken branches and limbs trimmed before ice hits, or before someone runs into them visiting for the holidays. You know where they are but people new to your property are bound to run into them.

 As soon as a hard frost hits, it will be time to mulch. Mulching maintains the soil at an even temperature. During winter, the point of mulching is to keep plants in hibernation. If you still have shredded leaf piles, move those into flower beds, those will also make good mulch.

 To mulch trees, make a well around the tree trunk and leave an area the width of a tire between the tree trunk and the mulch. When mulching, don’t pile mulch up to the trunk or you will create an area for diseases. Leaving a little moat around the tree also reduces girdling.

 Have empty pots, garden carts, rakes leaning against the side of the house? It’s time to clean them off and store them for the season. The rakes, in particular, you don’t want to step on the tines and hit yourself on the side of the head.

Mulch-covered mums showing new growth; keep them watered over winter. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

If you are planting mums this fall, make sure to get them mulched and regularly watered over the cold months. Leave the dead growth, it will protect the young shoots growing in the plant center.

Empty composters into flower beds. Leave enough to get a new batch started.

Clean out and organize your garden implements so you know which ones need repairs including sharpening. Winter is a good time to get those done.

Did you save seeds this year? Get them in containers and labelled; store seeds in a cool dry space.

Keep an eye out for plant sales. Bulbs are usually half off this time of year and seasonal plants get marked down after the holidays.

Give gardening gifts for the gardeners on your gift list starting with these wonderful gardening gloves with honey.

Finally remember to rest and start planning for next year. If you haven’t already, make notes of what worked well this growing season and what you want to try next year. Before you know it, it will be spring!

Charlotte

Fall Mum Planting

The flowers are dying but the mum can still be planted in the garden. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Fall Mum Planting

Those lovely chrysanthemum flowers have died off and you’re ready to toss the plants but wait. You are looking at the wrong part of the plant.

First, why would you want to save a mum?

Chrysanthemums are natural bug deterring plants. Most of the “organic” bug sprays on the market are made basically out of essence of mums.

Secondly, mums can grow back next year with a little first winter care.

So what are you looking for?

I know it’s tempting to say the plant is done but forget the dead flowers. Carefully part the stems and look at the center. You should see new growth in the center of the plant.

Look at the inside bottom of the plant, if it’s doing well you will see new growth. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Sometimes you will also see growth down the side of the root ball, that’s a good sign, too.

f the stems are still green, chances are there is also new growth in the plant center.

If you don’t see anything at first, look at where the stems split from the center stalks, there may be new growth just starting along the plant stems.

Also check the root ball. If it’s dry, put the whole root ball in a bucket of water and let it rehydrate.

Old totes are good ways to rehydrate dry mums assuming they don’t have holes. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Mums have shallow roots so make sure to get the top watered. I use old beekeeping storage totes although one of them had a hole in the bottom. You want a container that will hold water long enough for the plant to absorb it into its entire root ball.

Once the root ball is saturated and you see new growth, it’s time to get the mums permanently in the garden.

Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball. Water it before you put in the mum to make sure the surrounding soil is saturated. I wait for a good rain before I plant; that way the ground is hydrated and I can more easily dig my limestone hillside.

Break off the bottom 2-3 inches of the root ball in case the roots are bound. I pack that soil back in around the planted root ball.

Place the mum in the dug hole, then tap soil all around it. Water again.

Leave the dead branches; those will help protect the new growth over winter.

Mulch planted mums with leaves around the perimeter to protect new growth. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins0

Again don’t worry about those faded and drooping flowers, keep your eye on the green stems and whatever growth you found in the plant center.

Mulch the plant all around. I use chopped up leaves.

Once we have a hard frost, I will add mulch over the top. Mulch helps to protect the plant from freezing and thawing.

Through winter, check the plant to make sure it’s not dry. Water regularly; a gallon a month per plant.

Now there is no guarantee that these plants will make it through winter but a high percentage of the ones I have planted this way have survived. They may be different shaped and smaller size than the original plant but one growing season will help them get big again.

To keep their round shape next year, pinch them back every few weeks. I use my plant snips to quickly cut the plants back. They also work well to snip off dead flower heads and encourage new flowers.

Here is a mum I planted a couple of months ago now showing new flowers in the center where there is new growth.

Surprise, one of the mums I planted earlier is showing new flowers. (Photo by Charlotte Ekker Wiggins)

Did I mention that mums also make very long lasting cut flowers?

Charlotte